When in doubt, go out.

Forced back once again by high winds, Kaj Söderin and I chose not to venture further due to the 100 km/hr winds blowing over Sylarnas summit.

1/640s, f/8.0, ISO 100, 35 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Schlager is like opium for the people

After a quick run up Sjuan (Seven), the snow field in the background shaped like a 7, that was almost disastrous when the field started rumbling and cracked with Oscar and I on the wrong side, we decided there was just enough light left to make an attempt on the west face of Herrklumpen, Sylarna.

The route follows a vertical chimney to the left of the bare rock in the middle of the face starting about a third of the way up Sjuan. Without any ice, climbing involved hooking frozen moss and slightly frozen loose blocks with the crux a body sized bloc covering the chimney.

We (Shawn Boye, Ulf Renman, Kaj Söderin and Oscar Wahlund) climbed Schlager är som ett opium för folket (Schlager is like opium for the people), 4, M5, Moss 4, IV, in a howling blizzard in two 30m pitches toping out in fading light. We believe it to be a first ascent.

Oscar and Kaj enjoying a rare moment of sunshine with Herrklumpen in the background.

1/1000, F5.6, 32 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye

Low Visibility...

But with a half meter of powder, what does it matter? Kaj Söderin enjoying the backside of Herrklumpen, Sylarna.

1/1000, F7.1, 105 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye