Schlager is like opium for the people

After a quick run up Sjuan (Seven), the snow field in the background shaped like a 7, that was almost disastrous when the field started rumbling and cracked with Oscar and I on the wrong side, we decided there was just enough light left to make an attempt on the west face of Herrklumpen, Sylarna.

The route follows a vertical chimney to the left of the bare rock in the middle of the face starting about a third of the way up Sjuan. Without any ice, climbing involved hooking frozen moss and slightly frozen loose blocks with the crux a body sized bloc covering the chimney.

We (Shawn Boye, Ulf Renman, Kaj Söderin and Oscar Wahlund) climbed Schlager är som ett opium för folket (Schlager is like opium for the people), 4, M5, Moss 4, IV, in a howling blizzard in two 30m pitches toping out in fading light. We believe it to be a first ascent.

Oscar and Kaj enjoying a rare moment of sunshine with Herrklumpen in the background.

1/1000, F5.6, 32 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye

Crackoholic

Watch Scott Mooney cruise Crackoholic in Ulorna, Bohuslän, Sweden

The Sends Crackoholic is a segment of The Sends, available from www.tielma.com as a DVD (NTSC/PAL) for $24.95 or an HD Download for $19.95.

Alpine Girls

Johanna Tiensuu Stålnacke and Sara Widell enjoying a not so alpine start to another day of looking for ice...

1/40, 4.0, 24 mm, ISO1250 © 2010 Shawn Boye

Rock and Ice #185

The Sends is close to Perfect in it's no-frills depiction of a tight group of talented but not quite world-class Swedish climbers... -Jeff Jackson, Rock and Ice #185

0.6, F22, 75 mm, ISO400 © 2010 Shawn Boye

Day 25

When he was 25 weeks old we'd climbed at 25 different crags. Now he's 3 and we've skied 25 days this year including making it down from the top of Åreskutan in 5 m visibility. Not bad.

1/400, F5.0, 80 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye

I'm no lumberjack...

Rock boots, ice boots, ski boots all take their toll... it's like hot aches but it doesn't go away.

1/200, F4.0, 105 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye

Whiteout!

Oscar Wahlund staying afloat, Herrklumpen, Sylarna.

1/1000, F7.1, 105 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye

Low Visibility...

But with a half meter of powder, what does it matter? Kaj Söderin enjoying the backside of Herrklumpen, Sylarna.

1/1000, F7.1, 105 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye

Signs of Life

Slowly, still in the shade, spring is finding it's way forward...

1/50, F3.2, 200 mm, ISO200 © 2010 Shawn Boye

On its way

Spring hasn't quite arrived, but soon...

1/500, F5.0, 200 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye

Its short, make the most of it...

1/200, F2.8, 200 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye