Racked 'n Ready!

Sometimes the focus of leading off into the unknown can cause strange things to happen... Maybe it's time to expand the Buddy Check, at least for certain people.

1/640s, f/1.4, ISO 100, 50 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Bagatell

Marre Ågerstrand pondering her next move on the fantastic Bagatell 6+, Galgeberget, Bohuslän.

1/2000s, f/1.8, ISO 100, 50 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

In the Bag.

Christoffer Westin bagging another tick, Baggen 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm

1/400s, f/8.0, ISO 100, 200 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Sport Climbing is Neither...

So what's headpointing? I'm not a fan, but I made an exception on Huvudleden, Skevik, considering the chossy nature of the crag. It's a completely different approach, rapping in to check the gear, top-ropping, placing gear on top-rope and finally tying into the sharp end. At which point there was no drama left, only execution, which makes the whole process seem rather unsporty. Maybe, this is dependent on the difficulty of the climb, relative to the climber, or the ability to protect the climb but it seems pretty hard to trash a sport climber onsighting at or near their maximum as not being sport.

Luckily, after sending, I did get an opportunity to experience real "sport" as another climber attempted and successfully, though shakily, managed to onsight the route. An enrapturing and inspiring climb that should leave an asterix beside ticks that employ headpointing. At least I didn't touch any of the many rusty pitons on the route, and neither did the other climber, that definitely aren't needed and shouldn't be there. Then again, thinking about it, a send is a send, especially with a name like the route has, you can't help but climb it.

Shawn Boye, unracked from all the gear Huvudleden 6c+, Skevik, can suck up, recounting the experience of "jammin".

1/50s, f/2.8, ISO 100, 33 mm Photo Linda Sandgren © 2011 Tielma Productions