I had no idea...

That Swedish climbing was so serious. Well, I knew all along and that's why I did what I've done. I doubt you'll understand. But I'll try, if you say a route is dangerous and it proves not to be, all you have demonstrated is that your judgement is flawed. That is dangerous. If it's ok to bolt because you're a big fish in a little pond, that's segregation. Climbing gives us access to a whole dimension that most never experience. We should not take this lightly and demean it with self-glorification. I wish you all the best. Good luck.


-2010-04-10, 12:46 am, after watching Crackoholic

Hand model

Climbers probably don't make the best hand models and for that matter, neither do chefs. Here you can see what happens when a climber tries to cook... notice the third degree burns on the thumb. The scotch serves the purpose of both wetting your appetite and distracting Veera Kainiemi.

1/200, F4.0, 105 mm, ISO400 © 2010 Shawn Boye

Bistaberget

Some people escape to warmer locations to start the season... but climbing here, in the setting sun after a long, cold winter, what could be better? Linda Söderlund working on Likplundraren, 6c+, Bistaberget.

1/800, F4.5, 24 mm, ISO125 © 2010 Shawn Boye

Just moments before...

Conny Dahlin considering what to take with him and where it might take him...

1/400, F4.5, 24 mm, ISO125 © 2010 Shawn Boye

Den ofullbordade

Conny Dahlin checking out the crack on the fantastic Den ofullbordade, 6b+, Bistaberget.

1/250, F5.6, 105 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye

When I was young...

Well, I still am. Interestingly, people age at different rates than they travel around the sun. But I digress... Years ago we would go up on the hill behind the old homestead and look for the crocuses poking through the snow; the first signs of spring. Maybe, these days, the scene is more diluted but nature, she still finds her way.

1/250, F8.0, 105 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye

Run out?

Contrary to the guide book, the obvious line to Skriet från vildmarken, Bistaberget, is straight up the crack, or at least that's how I climbed it, placing a couple of cams after diverging from the described line.


After several attempts at the traverse and not intent on a big pendulum, Oscar, who didn't have any gear with him, decided to run it out straight up the crack, if you call 3m between bolts running it out. Just as Oscar finally managed to clip a bolt on an adjacent route, Kapten Krok, one of his feet popped, adding a bit of drama and making for a memorable climb.


1/125, F9.0, 24 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye