Which character in Lord of the Rings does 8a most remind you of?
Nine (9) winners will recieve a free signed climbing DVD from Tielma Productions. Please send you answer to boycott8a[at]tielma.com along with motivation* and your postal address. Winners will be announced January 1, 2010.
*Please note that if you are selected a winner your motivation may be published on the internet.
Chillax
Dec on some Irish 5a. We were rained on at least 5 times but true to his word, it did dry quickly. Chillax, Glendalough, Co., Wicklow.1/125, F2.8, 22 mm, ISO800 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Luck o' the Irish
Usually it's good people who take it on the chin...1/640, F4.5, 35 mm, ISO100 © 2009 Shawn Boye
The Sends Reviewed by Nicolas von Boven for VideoClimb.com
Climbing movies often give us the opportunity to dive into worlds we may not know. Visiting unknown areas is probably one of the reasons a lot of climbers are hooked to this sport. “The Sends” introduces you to some of the finest Swedish climbing areas. It features “a story of two years odyssey through a land covered in granite” with some of the best local climbers including Peter Bosma, Stephan Rasmussen, Ry Morrison Stefan Wulf, Björn Strömberg and many more.
The film focuses on the obsession that makes climbers try and try again until “the send” finally free their mind. Shawn Boye who also shot “Swedish Meatballs” a few years ago seems to like when the “sending statement” happens in magical places.
The movie takes you for a roadtrip trough Sweden: from the west coast in Bohuslän to the east coast in Västervik, Stockholm and Åland. It features some bouldering, night climbing, trad climbing, cave climbing, and deep water soloing… Yes, you can do all this in Sweden! And the climbing quality is definitly not the worst on earth: the rock looks always good and the places are wild and scenic. Beyond the climbing, the movie introduces you to the local climbers trough short interviews.
As for the shooting and the video quality, this movie was very well made. The climbs are shot from many angles, the images and colors are great (even though some footages were shot at night) and the editing is very clean.
If you want to discover a new place or prepare your next climbing trip to Sweden, this movie is made for you!
The movie is available on DVD ($24.95) and HD download ($19.95) on www.tielma.com
-Nicolas von Boven
http://www.videoclimb.com/dvd-review-the-sends/
The film focuses on the obsession that makes climbers try and try again until “the send” finally free their mind. Shawn Boye who also shot “Swedish Meatballs” a few years ago seems to like when the “sending statement” happens in magical places.
The movie takes you for a roadtrip trough Sweden: from the west coast in Bohuslän to the east coast in Västervik, Stockholm and Åland. It features some bouldering, night climbing, trad climbing, cave climbing, and deep water soloing… Yes, you can do all this in Sweden! And the climbing quality is definitly not the worst on earth: the rock looks always good and the places are wild and scenic. Beyond the climbing, the movie introduces you to the local climbers trough short interviews.
As for the shooting and the video quality, this movie was very well made. The climbs are shot from many angles, the images and colors are great (even though some footages were shot at night) and the editing is very clean.
If you want to discover a new place or prepare your next climbing trip to Sweden, this movie is made for you!
The movie is available on DVD ($24.95) and HD download ($19.95) on www.tielma.com
-Nicolas von Boven
http://www.videoclimb.com/dvd-review-the-sends/
The Sends Reviewed by Tommy Vänskä for Slouppi.net
A diver - very much resembling Peter Bosma - suffers an accident and is rescued out of the water. During the revival attempts one of the ambulance personnel gives the diagnosis: he is suffering, not from the bends*, but the sends.
So begins the latest video from Tielma productions, i.e. Canadian ex-pat Shawn Boye. Having focused primarily on covering bouldering in Sweden in his previous films Tjugo på Kjuge and Swedish meatballs, Boye now turns to exploring the question of what it takes to send.
The quest begins with bouldering: From a project at Stockholm's Brudberget through the east coast home turf of Stefan Rasmussen to Åland, we are given a hefty dose of ropeless action culminating in the first repeat of Normipäivä at Geta (or was it a dab?), courtesy of Bosma. We are then introduced to a fiery-eyed Stefan Wulf, who manages the first repeat of an old Johan Luhr sport route, and in good style too; Wulf DWS:s the thing, although SWS might be a more appropriate term, as there appears to be around a meter and a half of water beneath the route. Wulf doesn't look super solid here, and confesses that he never linked it on top rope before tossing the rope and going for the solo. Contrary to some persistent beliefs on this side of Åland it would appear that cojones and Sweden do mix after all!
Indeed, for those in doubt the next section should settle the matter, as we are taken aboard Henrik Bolander's boat and are shown what the coast of Bohuslän has to offer in terms of DWS. Right away Bolander climbs a 20+ meter 7c+ at an imposing cliff called Bläckhall, a feat that simple cannot be accomplished without a pair of fair sized balls (metaphorically speaking, of course). The DWS section shows that the contrast between the slightly overhanging granite of Bohuslän and the more commonly seen steep limestone of, say, Mallorca is apparent, but not necessarily to the advantage of either one.
As we move on back to dry land we get a first look at Granitgrottan, an unusually steep cave-like crag which hosts the long time project of Björn Strömberg, who is clearly getting frustrated with not sending the thing. Another man, Scott Mooney, seems to have sending wired, though, as is evidenced by a few second try ascents of rather hard trad routes in Bohuslän. Finally, Strömberg gets his shit together and completes his project, giving birth to Leroy, 8c. But only after he has fallen off at the anchors due to a carabiner gate facing the wrong way! I suggest clipping class for Björn, but good effort anyway.
In my opinion it is usually a good idea to have some kind of structural framework in a climbing film, meaning something that makes it more than just a succession of climbs. The Sends fares well in this respect. The theme of what it takes to send routes and boulders is explored mainly through extensive interviews which are skillfully intercut with the climbing footage to form a smooth, very watchable story. The scenes with Boye by the campfire felt a bit superfluous to me, though, and perhaps the film could have been kept together with slightly less of the talking. I would also have liked to hear more Swedish, as the English at times felt a bit contrived. We are in Sweden, and mostly among Swedish climbers, after all. One of the few instances when Swedish is clearly heard is when Björn Strömberg falls off at the anchors of Leroy and very loudly lets the name of the female genitals echo in the cave. Genuine. One of my favorite moments of the film.
The footage itself is generally good, but suffers from an occasional lack of "master shots", meaning shots that reveal the entire line, or just reveal the line for what it is. The DWS section in particular would have benefitted greatly from more shots showing exactly how high above the water the climber is, how far he has to go and so on. In fact, I can recall only one such shot, in which Stefan Wulf is hanging in a small roof at perhaps ten meters: a beautiful shot, which is inexplicably held for only a few frames. The lack of these kinds of shots is partially explained by the parameters under which the shooting took place (according to some inside information I've received). However, in some cases the best angle is not found, or is underused. The best example of this is Normipäivä, which is one of the most impressive boulder problems I have ever seen: a perhaps 60 degree overhang, as if cut by a knife, which just goes on and on and on. This does not come through in the film. A bit of history would have been nice here, too. The problem was tried by everyone and his brother for well over ten years before Nalle Hukkataival finally climbed it in 2007. Among the failed contenders is Ben Moon, who allegedly said "in another life" after giving up.
In Swedish meatballs I had a huge problem with the choice of music and the way it worked (or didn't!) with the picture. Here, I think some progress has been made. However, there are probably many kinds of scenes to which acoustic man-and-guitar music in the minor key goes beautifully, but someone cranking a DWS F.A. by the skin if his teeth is definitely not one of them! Similar fatal dissonances (for me) between music and picture are found throughout the film, so I guess I just don't share Boye's view on this matter.
Some selected highlights: the section with Stefan Rasmussen (nice character portrait and fine problems); Bolander topping out 43 Knots at Bläckhall, showing real elation and relief; Leroy, impressive line and real frustration.
Overall, the Sends is a well crafted climbing film, the best so far from Tielma, and as such comes with my recommendation (for what it's worth!). It is available as a traditional dvd and also as a HD download at www.tielma.com.
Text by Tommy Vänskä
www.slouppi.net/articles.phtml?articlePage=11
So begins the latest video from Tielma productions, i.e. Canadian ex-pat Shawn Boye. Having focused primarily on covering bouldering in Sweden in his previous films Tjugo på Kjuge and Swedish meatballs, Boye now turns to exploring the question of what it takes to send.
The quest begins with bouldering: From a project at Stockholm's Brudberget through the east coast home turf of Stefan Rasmussen to Åland, we are given a hefty dose of ropeless action culminating in the first repeat of Normipäivä at Geta (or was it a dab?), courtesy of Bosma. We are then introduced to a fiery-eyed Stefan Wulf, who manages the first repeat of an old Johan Luhr sport route, and in good style too; Wulf DWS:s the thing, although SWS might be a more appropriate term, as there appears to be around a meter and a half of water beneath the route. Wulf doesn't look super solid here, and confesses that he never linked it on top rope before tossing the rope and going for the solo. Contrary to some persistent beliefs on this side of Åland it would appear that cojones and Sweden do mix after all!
Indeed, for those in doubt the next section should settle the matter, as we are taken aboard Henrik Bolander's boat and are shown what the coast of Bohuslän has to offer in terms of DWS. Right away Bolander climbs a 20+ meter 7c+ at an imposing cliff called Bläckhall, a feat that simple cannot be accomplished without a pair of fair sized balls (metaphorically speaking, of course). The DWS section shows that the contrast between the slightly overhanging granite of Bohuslän and the more commonly seen steep limestone of, say, Mallorca is apparent, but not necessarily to the advantage of either one.
As we move on back to dry land we get a first look at Granitgrottan, an unusually steep cave-like crag which hosts the long time project of Björn Strömberg, who is clearly getting frustrated with not sending the thing. Another man, Scott Mooney, seems to have sending wired, though, as is evidenced by a few second try ascents of rather hard trad routes in Bohuslän. Finally, Strömberg gets his shit together and completes his project, giving birth to Leroy, 8c. But only after he has fallen off at the anchors due to a carabiner gate facing the wrong way! I suggest clipping class for Björn, but good effort anyway.
In my opinion it is usually a good idea to have some kind of structural framework in a climbing film, meaning something that makes it more than just a succession of climbs. The Sends fares well in this respect. The theme of what it takes to send routes and boulders is explored mainly through extensive interviews which are skillfully intercut with the climbing footage to form a smooth, very watchable story. The scenes with Boye by the campfire felt a bit superfluous to me, though, and perhaps the film could have been kept together with slightly less of the talking. I would also have liked to hear more Swedish, as the English at times felt a bit contrived. We are in Sweden, and mostly among Swedish climbers, after all. One of the few instances when Swedish is clearly heard is when Björn Strömberg falls off at the anchors of Leroy and very loudly lets the name of the female genitals echo in the cave. Genuine. One of my favorite moments of the film.
The footage itself is generally good, but suffers from an occasional lack of "master shots", meaning shots that reveal the entire line, or just reveal the line for what it is. The DWS section in particular would have benefitted greatly from more shots showing exactly how high above the water the climber is, how far he has to go and so on. In fact, I can recall only one such shot, in which Stefan Wulf is hanging in a small roof at perhaps ten meters: a beautiful shot, which is inexplicably held for only a few frames. The lack of these kinds of shots is partially explained by the parameters under which the shooting took place (according to some inside information I've received). However, in some cases the best angle is not found, or is underused. The best example of this is Normipäivä, which is one of the most impressive boulder problems I have ever seen: a perhaps 60 degree overhang, as if cut by a knife, which just goes on and on and on. This does not come through in the film. A bit of history would have been nice here, too. The problem was tried by everyone and his brother for well over ten years before Nalle Hukkataival finally climbed it in 2007. Among the failed contenders is Ben Moon, who allegedly said "in another life" after giving up.
In Swedish meatballs I had a huge problem with the choice of music and the way it worked (or didn't!) with the picture. Here, I think some progress has been made. However, there are probably many kinds of scenes to which acoustic man-and-guitar music in the minor key goes beautifully, but someone cranking a DWS F.A. by the skin if his teeth is definitely not one of them! Similar fatal dissonances (for me) between music and picture are found throughout the film, so I guess I just don't share Boye's view on this matter.
Some selected highlights: the section with Stefan Rasmussen (nice character portrait and fine problems); Bolander topping out 43 Knots at Bläckhall, showing real elation and relief; Leroy, impressive line and real frustration.
Overall, the Sends is a well crafted climbing film, the best so far from Tielma, and as such comes with my recommendation (for what it's worth!). It is available as a traditional dvd and also as a HD download at www.tielma.com.
Text by Tommy Vänskä
www.slouppi.net/articles.phtml?articlePage=11
The Sends recension av Johan Banck
The Sends är kanadensiskfödde Shawn Boyes tredje svenska klätterfilm. Den tar avstamp i den amerikanska dosagetraditionen och följer en rad av de mer celebra svenska klättrarna genom ett flertal varierande dicipliner. Från nattbouldring i ljuset av hostande dieselaggregat via soldränkt DWS på västkusten till Granitgrottans sportklättring.
The Sends, en parafras på dykningens "The Bends" i vanligt språkbruk kallad dykarsjuka, kretsar kring vad som driver vissa att satsa så mycket, pressa sig så hårt och i vissa fall utsätta sig för anmärkningsvärda risker i den eviga jakten på att senda. Regissören agerar själv spirituell vägledare genom filmen och har verkligen lagt ner möda på att fånga klättrarnas tankar kring den egna sporten. Intervjuerna är många och man hinner komma under skinnet på både en och två av de flitigast förekommande. Tyvärr upprepas stilen från Swedish Meatballs vilket innebär att även de svenska klättrarna pratar engelska. Kanske är undertexter ett väldigt avigt arbete men det blir skevt i en svensk produktion med svenska klättrare som pratar engelska. Vi brukar skryta med det mest engelsktalande landet utanför de brittiska öarna och så är det kanske men så jävla bra är vi inte. Annars är det enda jag saknar i intervjuväg en lite mer ingående uppföljning av tankarna kring Dab och låsning av projekt. Båda delarna nämns men lämnas tämligen okommenterade.
Den som får vika ut sig mest kring klättring och att senda är Peter Bosma. Mycket tack vare en till synes utpräglad vana att sätta ord på sina tankar. Många ord. Risken med en klätterfilm med utforskande ambitioner är att hamna i det pratiga facket. Det balanseras verkligen på gränsen mer än en gång och räddningen är i mångt och mycket att det inte är några 18-åringar i rufsiga frisyrer som skall tänka till utan faktiskt vuxna människor som har något att säga. En väldigt kul detalj är för övrigt Bosmas och den också mycket förekommande Stefan Wulfs kommentarer om varandra. Det finns dock en balans i filmen och den stavas Scott Mooney. Själva antitesen till Bosmas filosofi om gemenskap, kollektiv sendarglädje och att sporra varandra. Scott konstaterar lakoniskt: "You don't need to go climbing with so many people do you? They're not gonna help you up anything".
Trots den filosofiska ramen bjuds det på mycket klättring och precis som dess amerikanska föregångare är den stora behållnigen att man får ta del av så varierande klättring. Några av höjdpunkterna är Stefan Rasmussens till synes outtömliga entusiasm när han i djupaste skogarna i småland hukar sig ner över det kroknade dieselaggregatet i förhoppning om några timmars bouldrande till. Stefan Wulfs bestigning av Elefantsprickan, en shallow water solo utanför Stockholm, att på nära håll få följa Bosmas extrema sendarpsyke och se Björn Strömberg som efter att äntligen besegrat Leroy sitter skäggig och bakis i soffan med en flaska JW på bordet framför sig: "I think I need som time just to get all my stuff together".
Boye visar sin vana trogen fingertoppskänsla för att plocka ut rätt folk till sin film och mixen av personligheter lyfter verkligen filmen, ett särskilt omnämnande går till Stefan Wulf. Mannen är född att vara framför kameran och skulle med lätthet bära upp en film på egen hand. Annars hade det varit kul om man fått ta del av den yngre generation klättrare som är på gång, namnen som dyker upp i The Sends har funnits på tapeten ett bra tag nu och nog måste det finnas lite nya talanger att blanda upp laget med?
Rent tekniskt håller filmen inte amerikansk klass, vilket man inte kan förvänta sig, men Boye har helt klart utvecklats sedan starten och det är i särklass den bästa av hans filmer. Tyckte till och med mig ana en bompanorering någonstans. Soundtrack är en annan av hans styrkor och det visas återigen. Jag skulle inte ta i någon av låtarna med tång men till filmen fungerar det klockrent.
Till syvende och sist är det en habil svensk (väder nämns otaliga gånger) produkt. Mycket klättring, bra mix av klättrare och en skön inramning. Boyes bästa.
av Johan Banck
http://klatterbilder.blogspot.com/2009/11/recension-av-sends.html
The Sends, en parafras på dykningens "The Bends" i vanligt språkbruk kallad dykarsjuka, kretsar kring vad som driver vissa att satsa så mycket, pressa sig så hårt och i vissa fall utsätta sig för anmärkningsvärda risker i den eviga jakten på att senda. Regissören agerar själv spirituell vägledare genom filmen och har verkligen lagt ner möda på att fånga klättrarnas tankar kring den egna sporten. Intervjuerna är många och man hinner komma under skinnet på både en och två av de flitigast förekommande. Tyvärr upprepas stilen från Swedish Meatballs vilket innebär att även de svenska klättrarna pratar engelska. Kanske är undertexter ett väldigt avigt arbete men det blir skevt i en svensk produktion med svenska klättrare som pratar engelska. Vi brukar skryta med det mest engelsktalande landet utanför de brittiska öarna och så är det kanske men så jävla bra är vi inte. Annars är det enda jag saknar i intervjuväg en lite mer ingående uppföljning av tankarna kring Dab och låsning av projekt. Båda delarna nämns men lämnas tämligen okommenterade.
Den som får vika ut sig mest kring klättring och att senda är Peter Bosma. Mycket tack vare en till synes utpräglad vana att sätta ord på sina tankar. Många ord. Risken med en klätterfilm med utforskande ambitioner är att hamna i det pratiga facket. Det balanseras verkligen på gränsen mer än en gång och räddningen är i mångt och mycket att det inte är några 18-åringar i rufsiga frisyrer som skall tänka till utan faktiskt vuxna människor som har något att säga. En väldigt kul detalj är för övrigt Bosmas och den också mycket förekommande Stefan Wulfs kommentarer om varandra. Det finns dock en balans i filmen och den stavas Scott Mooney. Själva antitesen till Bosmas filosofi om gemenskap, kollektiv sendarglädje och att sporra varandra. Scott konstaterar lakoniskt: "You don't need to go climbing with so many people do you? They're not gonna help you up anything".
Trots den filosofiska ramen bjuds det på mycket klättring och precis som dess amerikanska föregångare är den stora behållnigen att man får ta del av så varierande klättring. Några av höjdpunkterna är Stefan Rasmussens till synes outtömliga entusiasm när han i djupaste skogarna i småland hukar sig ner över det kroknade dieselaggregatet i förhoppning om några timmars bouldrande till. Stefan Wulfs bestigning av Elefantsprickan, en shallow water solo utanför Stockholm, att på nära håll få följa Bosmas extrema sendarpsyke och se Björn Strömberg som efter att äntligen besegrat Leroy sitter skäggig och bakis i soffan med en flaska JW på bordet framför sig: "I think I need som time just to get all my stuff together".
Boye visar sin vana trogen fingertoppskänsla för att plocka ut rätt folk till sin film och mixen av personligheter lyfter verkligen filmen, ett särskilt omnämnande går till Stefan Wulf. Mannen är född att vara framför kameran och skulle med lätthet bära upp en film på egen hand. Annars hade det varit kul om man fått ta del av den yngre generation klättrare som är på gång, namnen som dyker upp i The Sends har funnits på tapeten ett bra tag nu och nog måste det finnas lite nya talanger att blanda upp laget med?
Rent tekniskt håller filmen inte amerikansk klass, vilket man inte kan förvänta sig, men Boye har helt klart utvecklats sedan starten och det är i särklass den bästa av hans filmer. Tyckte till och med mig ana en bompanorering någonstans. Soundtrack är en annan av hans styrkor och det visas återigen. Jag skulle inte ta i någon av låtarna med tång men till filmen fungerar det klockrent.
Till syvende och sist är det en habil svensk (väder nämns otaliga gånger) produkt. Mycket klättring, bra mix av klättrare och en skön inramning. Boyes bästa.
av Johan Banck
http://klatterbilder.blogspot.com/2009/11/recension-av-sends.html
Open Letter/Review of The Sends by Olle Wehlin
I asked Olle Wehlin to write a review of The Sends in Swedish, with the idea that it would be published to the Swedish 8a page. Here's what Olle had to say:
jaha. så har man sett den då, filmen man väntat på allt för länge.
Kan tänka mig att tillverka en klätterfilm måste vara rätt svårt eller hårt kanske. speciellt om man skå få självaste hugh grant att sola elefant sprickan.
måste verkligen säga att filmen tilltalar mig väldigt gott. det känns som om du börjar att få kläm på det där.
otroliga platser i bohusskärgården samt en otroligt svensk nyaseeländare det är ju som gjort för en mysig hemma kväll.
kul som faan att få ta del av dessa hjältars grymma driv, även om vissa kör moped och andra brassar fete båt, så verkar det ju som om det enda viktiga är det rätta tillståndet, för det är väl då man sänder. STARKT JOBBAT
ser fram emot uppföljaren, och hoppas på att henrik kommer starta en båt taxi i skärgården.
kan mycket väl tänka mig att detta kan bli årets julklapp i vissa kretsar.
(du får säga till om du vill att jag skall skriva mer. filmen är as grym det ända jag skulle vilja ha mer av är utzoomningar.)
har tyvärr tappat bort adressen till jens men det kanske du kan lösa. funkar på att åka till blåmannen till sommaren och ha en hjälmkamera under klättringen vad tror du om det. mvh olle
jaha. så har man sett den då, filmen man väntat på allt för länge.
Kan tänka mig att tillverka en klätterfilm måste vara rätt svårt eller hårt kanske. speciellt om man skå få självaste hugh grant att sola elefant sprickan.
måste verkligen säga att filmen tilltalar mig väldigt gott. det känns som om du börjar att få kläm på det där.
otroliga platser i bohusskärgården samt en otroligt svensk nyaseeländare det är ju som gjort för en mysig hemma kväll.
kul som faan att få ta del av dessa hjältars grymma driv, även om vissa kör moped och andra brassar fete båt, så verkar det ju som om det enda viktiga är det rätta tillståndet, för det är väl då man sänder. STARKT JOBBAT
ser fram emot uppföljaren, och hoppas på att henrik kommer starta en båt taxi i skärgården.
kan mycket väl tänka mig att detta kan bli årets julklapp i vissa kretsar.
(du får säga till om du vill att jag skall skriva mer. filmen är as grym det ända jag skulle vilja ha mer av är utzoomningar.)
har tyvärr tappat bort adressen till jens men det kanske du kan lösa. funkar på att åka till blåmannen till sommaren och ha en hjälmkamera under klättringen vad tror du om det. mvh olle
The Sends Reviewed by Carl-Ola Boström
Join a slightly different adventure through a not so well known venue. Sweden and Swedish climbers are in focus in Shawn Boye’s new film, The Sends. This is a 1½ hour action packed film featuring a part of all the different climbing styles that you can find in this long country.
We follow Swedish superstars Peter Bosma, Stefan Rasmussen, Scott Mooney, Stefan Wulf and Björn Strömberg on their lifelong quest of finding out what it takes to send. They travel through Sweden and explore the fantastic piscobloc (deep/shallow water solo), sport- and tradclimbing on the west coast in Bohuslän and the steep and crimpy bouldering on the east coast in Västervik, Stockholm and Åland.
A lot of the climbing pictured in the film really gets me psyched to go on yet another road trip in Sweden but surprisingly, for me as a notorious boulderer, the part that really gets me going is the trad from Bohuslän. I love the attitude of Scott and Dylan and it is really refreshing to see someone just shut up and climb.
Another part that gets my fingers sweating is Wulfs psicobloc ascent of Elefantsprickan. This is a steep crack around 8a+ and my only complaint is that it was practiced on toprope before the ascent. However, it is understandable as the water beneath him is only 1½ meters deep. That means Psicobloc with a big P. To see Stefan fliñar (a Spanish verb combing the verbs “to be high” and “to shit yourself”) in a way I have only seen in Mallorca before is really great.
As for the camerawork from Mr Boye it has really taken a big step since his last release. The angles, colors, editing etc exceed anything I have seen in a Swedish climbing film before. I know that his focus is still on getting real ascents, done in one take with multiple cameras and this does add to the experience.
Basically this is a film about passion, commitment and dedication. If you are contemplating a trip to Sweden it is a must to see The Sends before. If you are not planning a trip to Sweden, then watch out. You just might after watching it.
Carl-Ola Boström
We follow Swedish superstars Peter Bosma, Stefan Rasmussen, Scott Mooney, Stefan Wulf and Björn Strömberg on their lifelong quest of finding out what it takes to send. They travel through Sweden and explore the fantastic piscobloc (deep/shallow water solo), sport- and tradclimbing on the west coast in Bohuslän and the steep and crimpy bouldering on the east coast in Västervik, Stockholm and Åland.
A lot of the climbing pictured in the film really gets me psyched to go on yet another road trip in Sweden but surprisingly, for me as a notorious boulderer, the part that really gets me going is the trad from Bohuslän. I love the attitude of Scott and Dylan and it is really refreshing to see someone just shut up and climb.
Another part that gets my fingers sweating is Wulfs psicobloc ascent of Elefantsprickan. This is a steep crack around 8a+ and my only complaint is that it was practiced on toprope before the ascent. However, it is understandable as the water beneath him is only 1½ meters deep. That means Psicobloc with a big P. To see Stefan fliñar (a Spanish verb combing the verbs “to be high” and “to shit yourself”) in a way I have only seen in Mallorca before is really great.
As for the camerawork from Mr Boye it has really taken a big step since his last release. The angles, colors, editing etc exceed anything I have seen in a Swedish climbing film before. I know that his focus is still on getting real ascents, done in one take with multiple cameras and this does add to the experience.
Basically this is a film about passion, commitment and dedication. If you are contemplating a trip to Sweden it is a must to see The Sends before. If you are not planning a trip to Sweden, then watch out. You just might after watching it.
Carl-Ola Boström
The Sends HD Download
For the first time ever Tielma Productions is simultaneously releasing our new film The Sends on DVD, $24.95, as well as a HD Download, $19.95.The Sends HD Download is higher quality than the DVD and includes the Outtakes not included on the DVD. However, the HD Download requires a fast computer with at least 2 GB of free disk space and a recent version of Quicktime. you will also need a fast internet connection.
Payment is via Paypal, International Bank Transfer or Bankgiro in Sweden. On receipt of payment you will be sent an email with a link to the download. Contact info@tielma.com if you have technical questions or difficulties with the download.
File Size: 1.95 GB
Resolution: 1280x720
Run Time: 71 minutes Plus 14 minutes of Outtakes
Format: Quicktime .mp4 file, encoded with H.264 codec
JSM 2009
Tobias Linder, Swedish Junior Champion, on the finals route, Eskilstuna Klätterklubb.
Gaia
It's well known that sunlight is important for Gaia, 8b, Odyssey, Kalymnos. Climber: Zafiris Kamaropoulos. 1/640s, F4.5, 50mm, ISO200 © 2009 Shawn Boye
"Catfish"
Sometimes getting what you want requires some sacrifice.
There are a lot of stray cats on Kalymnos.
This one apparently wasn't hungry enough.
Was I?
1/160s, F6.3, 105mm, ISO100 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Aegialis
Oscar Krumlinde working the mega classic Aegialis, 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos.1/1000s, F2.8, 200mm, ISO100 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Priapos
Oscar Krumlinde on belay at Priapos after his first 7c flash.1/1250s, F3.2, 16mm, ISO100 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Aegialis
There's a reason it's famous. Some Russian working the mega classic Aegialis, 7c, Grande grotta, Kalymnos. Á muerte!1/200s, F4.5, 105mm, ISO125 © 2009 Shawn Boye
It's all in!
A Spaniard on the route in question, Aegean Sea, 7a+, Grande Grotta, Kalmnos.1/1000s, F4.0, 67mm, ISO125 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Goat!
Aegean Sea is an absolutely fantastic tufa climb to the left of the Grande Grotta in Kalymnos and I was under the impression that it was a hike having just watched a middle aged woman cruise it while avoiding what I found to be a key tufa.Returning to the ground she discussed the legitimacy of her climb with a friend who had been on Cigarillo, which obviously includes the big black tufa in question.
"I wasn't sure if I could use the tufa, the two routes are so close together."
"Yeah, it's a bit difficult to read."
"I didn't want to climb on your route so I didn't use it."
Obviously, something needed to be said so I piped up.
"Shit, if you can clip you're on route."
I mean, Lynn Hill should know, she's climbed enough...
1/250s, F4.5, 105mm, ISO640 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Grande Grotta
Shawn Boye sending Ivi, 7b, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos.1/50s, F8.0, 24mm, ISO100 © 2009 Tielma Productions. Photo Björn Bergmark
The Sends Uppsala Screening
The Sends will be shown in Uppsala at Slottsbiografen 2009-10-10, 19:00.
Tickets cost 100 kr (60 kr for UKK members) and include a FREE DVD. Tickets can be ordered by email from order@tielma.com OR purchased at the door.
The Sharma Show
Chris Sharma and Said Belhaj playing it up at Dieselverkstaden.
1/50s, F2.8, 16mm, ISO3200 © 2009 Shawn Boye
The Sends recension av Pierre Ropero
Först gjorde Shawn Boye 20 på Kjuge, en beta film, och fick oförtjänt ljummen kritik. Sedan blev det Swedish Meatballs, en roadtripp film som fick välförtjänt bättre kritik. Nu har han gjort The Sends för att ge oss inblick i vad som krävs för att sända.
Först och främst så måste jag berömma engagemanget som Shawn har lagt ner. X antal omtalade problem och leder är filmade med proffs prylar vid FA tillfället. Totalt 2000 timmar har det tagit. Kort och gott så är det upplagt för full frontal Swedish climbing porn.
Det bjuds på en massa Väst och Östkust Sends. Det bär av till bad och Ålands resa med seniorer. Man får bekanta sig närmare med urdjuret från Västervik. Framförallt får vi se Peter Bosma ta i och höra vad han går igång på.
Välkända doldisar som tex. Ry Morrison, Chris Ellis, Stefan Pettersson och Henrik Bolander står för inhoppen, men var är brudarna? Då filmen förs helt på engelska kan jag tycka att de engelska herrarna skall föra dialogen istället för dem infödda förmågorna. Å andra sidan så glömmer jag allt vad klätterflum heter när jag får höra Scott Mooneys klockrena anledning till varför han klättrar. När han sedan traddar sig upp för ett gäng super fina Bohus linjer njuter jag.
Björn Strömberg sliter sig upp för Leroy och visar, både med kropp och språk, vilket engagemang som krävs för att klättra snorhårt. Men att låsa projekt samtidigt som man uppmanar fler att pröva dem kommer jag aldrig förstå?
Bäst i hela filmen är ändå solobestigningen med Stefan Wulf på Elefantsprickan. Wulfens inte superstabila bestigning av sprickan ger mig en handsvett utan dess like. Han såg faktiskt ut att kunna dra i backen vilken sekund som helst. Att klippet backas upp av bra musik gör det hela till något unikt.
Sammanfattningsvis så påstår jag att The Sends, är den bästa filmen som Kanadensiske Uppsalabon Shawn Boye gjort. Det är en film som visar när några av dem bästa skickar hårt. Utan att för den delen vara en Dosage film, och det gillar jag! Good work Mr Shawn and thanks for bringing Swedish climbing movies to the silver screen.
Fantastiskt
Elefantsprickan med Wulf
Bosma ser ibland ut som han måste ta i vilket är ovanligt.
Scott Mooney på film (enfingers mono undercling på en 7c+ trad led e fan sick).
Stefan Rasmussens V-viks legacy. Att den mannen inte har körkort gör det hela ännu mer galet.
Mängden klättring, klättrare, stilar och ställen.
Mindre fantastiskt
Stundtals haltande engelsk monolog
Aningen mycket lägereldsfilosofi
Inga tjejer, så när som ett par sekunder i slutet.
Av Pierre Ropero
http://thebrunoshow.blogspot.com/2009/09/sends_08.html
Först och främst så måste jag berömma engagemanget som Shawn har lagt ner. X antal omtalade problem och leder är filmade med proffs prylar vid FA tillfället. Totalt 2000 timmar har det tagit. Kort och gott så är det upplagt för full frontal Swedish climbing porn.
Det bjuds på en massa Väst och Östkust Sends. Det bär av till bad och Ålands resa med seniorer. Man får bekanta sig närmare med urdjuret från Västervik. Framförallt får vi se Peter Bosma ta i och höra vad han går igång på.
Välkända doldisar som tex. Ry Morrison, Chris Ellis, Stefan Pettersson och Henrik Bolander står för inhoppen, men var är brudarna? Då filmen förs helt på engelska kan jag tycka att de engelska herrarna skall föra dialogen istället för dem infödda förmågorna. Å andra sidan så glömmer jag allt vad klätterflum heter när jag får höra Scott Mooneys klockrena anledning till varför han klättrar. När han sedan traddar sig upp för ett gäng super fina Bohus linjer njuter jag.
Björn Strömberg sliter sig upp för Leroy och visar, både med kropp och språk, vilket engagemang som krävs för att klättra snorhårt. Men att låsa projekt samtidigt som man uppmanar fler att pröva dem kommer jag aldrig förstå?
Bäst i hela filmen är ändå solobestigningen med Stefan Wulf på Elefantsprickan. Wulfens inte superstabila bestigning av sprickan ger mig en handsvett utan dess like. Han såg faktiskt ut att kunna dra i backen vilken sekund som helst. Att klippet backas upp av bra musik gör det hela till något unikt.
Sammanfattningsvis så påstår jag att The Sends, är den bästa filmen som Kanadensiske Uppsalabon Shawn Boye gjort. Det är en film som visar när några av dem bästa skickar hårt. Utan att för den delen vara en Dosage film, och det gillar jag! Good work Mr Shawn and thanks for bringing Swedish climbing movies to the silver screen.
Fantastiskt
Elefantsprickan med Wulf
Bosma ser ibland ut som han måste ta i vilket är ovanligt.
Scott Mooney på film (enfingers mono undercling på en 7c+ trad led e fan sick).
Stefan Rasmussens V-viks legacy. Att den mannen inte har körkort gör det hela ännu mer galet.
Mängden klättring, klättrare, stilar och ställen.
Mindre fantastiskt
Stundtals haltande engelsk monolog
Aningen mycket lägereldsfilosofi
Inga tjejer, så när som ett par sekunder i slutet.
Av Pierre Ropero
http://thebrunoshow.blogspot.com/2009/09/sends_08.html
Gäddhäng
Some people talk about bouldering season being near, others get out and climb. Kristin Boye working on some variant of Gäddhäng, 6A, Lilla Bärsta.1/100s, F3.2, 29mm, ISO1000 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Tickets for The Sends Premiere are FREE!
The World Premiere of The Sends will be held 2009.09.05 19:00 at the 330 seat SF Bio, Dieselverkstaden, Sickla, Stockholm. After party and music will follow the premiere at Dieselverkstaden.
Entrance is FREE, thanks to Tielma Productions, Marmot, Mad Rock and Klätterverket, get your tickets at Stockholm's climbing gyms and finer climbing stores while they last!
Entrance is FREE, thanks to Tielma Productions, Marmot, Mad Rock and Klätterverket, get your tickets at Stockholm's climbing gyms and finer climbing stores while they last!
Fly on the Wall
When you finish a projectYou review, reassess.
Look forward to new
Growth, possibilities.
It’s a bit like
being a fly on the wall.
1/500s, F4.0, 50mm, ISO100 © 2009 Shawn Boye
The Sends Outtakes
Watch a 14 minute Outtake segment from The Sends at http://www.tielma.com/thesends.html
Pre-order The Sends DVD before 2009.09.01 for just 195 SEK (19.50 EUR). The DVD will ship the day of it's release, 2009.10.10.
Pre-order The Sends DVD before 2009.09.01 for just 195 SEK (19.50 EUR). The DVD will ship the day of it's release, 2009.10.10.
"We want peace in..."
Alpha Blondy reminding the audience at Uppsala Raggae Festival just how good we have it. More images can be seen at Flickr.1/200s, F2.8, 75mm, ISO800 © 2009 Shawn Boye
"I am a student of music..."
Ky-Mani Marley belting out some of his Dad's classics at the Uppsala Raggae Festival. More images can be seen at Flickr.
1/125s, F2.8, 200mm, ISO1000 © 2009 Shawn Boye
96 Degrees in the Shade
Third World lighting up the stage at the Uppsala Raggae Festival. More images can be seen at Flickr.1/40s, F3.2, 200mm, ISO320 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Rommel
Björn Bergmark sticking the crux of Rommel, 7a+, Gåseborg
1/100s, F5.6, 85mm, ISO2000 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Blitz
It's not that we haven't been climbing, we have. We just haven't had time to pick up the camera. Kristin cruising Blitz, 6b, Gåseborg.1/500s, F3.5, 70mm, ISO100 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Vampyren
Beware the nesting birds on Vampyren, we didn't see them until we were cleaning the route and then, sadly, right after we'd rapped off, one chick fell to it's death. Vampyren should be left alone until the remaining chicks take wing.Veera Kainiemi enjoying the slabby start to Vampyren, 6a, Runsa.
1/320s, F3.2, 16mm, ISO250 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Topping out...
What climbing is all about... Veera Kainiemi topping out Uffes under, 5c, Grönbrinksberget.1/500s, F3.2, 70mm, ISO100 © 2009 Shawn Boye
The Sends Poster
From the Director of Swedish Meatballs comes the story of a two year Odyssey through a land covered in Granite. The adventure begins deep in the Forest of the Steepest Boulders where Peter Bosma encounters a real life Monster, Stefan Rasmussen, reincarnate of ancient Vikings. Narrowly escaping a Duel to the Death, Peter heads West in search of First Ascents high above frigid, Medusa filled, waters. But there is another, the Fearless Rasta, Stefan Wulf, willing to do Combat for Ultimate Glory. The cries of battle culminate in the awakening of the God of the Underworld, Björn Strömberg, struggling in his attempt to escape the confines of the Never Ending Cave.
Journey to a Mythical Land, where the denizens have discovered the Secret to Sending. The Sends, it’s what climbing is all about.
Journey to a Mythical Land, where the denizens have discovered the Secret to Sending. The Sends, it’s what climbing is all about.
Uffes under
A classic that you simply must climb. Veera Kainiemi enjoying every bit of Uffes under, 5c, Grönbrinksberget.
1/500s, F4.0, 165mm, ISO100 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Lord of the Flies
Surprisingly, there weren't any... Conny Dahlin topping out Flugornas herre, 6a, Runsa.1/600s, F2.8, 35mm, ISO160 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Transformation...
Really, she's a boulderer. Serious. She's definitely looking for the experience, but somewhere in there, there's the thought that "This is a little bit higher than a boulder, and just what are those metallic things?"
Veera Kainiemi in her element on Röda tår, 6b, Ågelsjön.
1/200s, F4.0, 85mm, ISO200 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Tuborg
It's a nice summer drink and you can climb it too! Conny Dahlin on the crux of Tuborg, 6b, Ågelsjön.1/100s, F4.0, 58mm, ISO400 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Who goes on vacation?
Some people boulder. Some people climb.
Climbers don't go on vacation.
They climb.
Year round.
What do you do?
Magnus Crona contemplating the next move on Tuborg, 6b, Ågelsjön.
1/125s, F4.0 60mm, ISO250 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Kashmir assis
Josè Ayuso sizing up the crimp on Kashmir assis, 6C, Källberga, Sweden.1/400s, F4.5, 95mm, ISO250 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Subway
Josè Ayuso working on the classic Subway 7A, Källberga, Sweden.
1/50s, F5.6, 24mm, ISO400 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Success!
Joel Berglund bearing down on the crux, Kattresan 7c, Skevik. It all culminated in a monumental battle on the slopers above with Joel finally sending after days of effort.1/200s, F4.0, 105mm, ISO200 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Herakleia Reviewed
I wasn't quite sure why Sercan kept trying to convince me to take a trip to Turkey to check out this mountain full of boulders, especially, considering he'd just been there with Mike Call to film Herakleia...The concept is solid, right? Take your friends climbing to some beautiful location, bring some cameras along and “Man, let’s make a movie!” Well, Mike Call has been doing this longer than just about everybody else, so here we go, “Hueco Plus”.
I remember taking a GR course a few years back, that’s General Relativity in case you’re wondering, and there was this guy sitting next to me trying to work out the tensors and no, not the type you use on your knee. Anyway, he was about 50, but easily 40, and I’m thinking “Man, if you don’t have an idea what it’s all about by now, you never will.” It’s just that, by the time you’ve got a handle on how to figure it out you’ve figured it out. Isn’t that the beauty of solving a boulder? So you look at yourself and you hope that in 25 years you’re just a bit further down the road, that your travels have led you just a bit further.
Maybe I digress, but I was left with that sinking sensation that the prom king was now living in a trailer. Back in the day Boone was the man, and while it still works for Josh, just because Sharma’s still cutting it, literally, some dogs have had their day. To quote a genius, “Do the evolution…”
It’s the lack of progression that comes through most evidently in Herakleia, the feeling that the collage kid never moved on, he just got slower.
Nonetheless, the Herakleia area looks fantastic. But seriously, with all that rock, what more motivation do you need? Or to put it this way, if my buddy pulls on a pair of headphones the next time he tries to send we’re probably looking for different experiences. I can understand why Sercan wanted a 2nd go at it, and while it looks like a fantastic area, when I go I’ll take my shoes instead of a camera, because as Herakleia is evidence you can’t take both and succeed…
Anatomy of a send...
A sequence of Ry Morrison sending Pumpmaskin 7a+, Skevik.Canon EOS 5D Mark II, Canon EF24-105mm f/4.0L IS USM
Pumpmaskin
Ry Morrison enjoying the crimps on Pumpmaskin 7a+, Skevik.1/160s, F4.0, 105mm, ISO320 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Escape...
With an amorous horse below Spång does everything he can to escape upwards... Slabby project, Häller, Sweden. Please respect the sensitive nature of access at Häller.
1/400s, F4.0, 82mm, ISO320 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Simulacrum
Veera Kainiemi making easy work of Simulacrum 6B+, Källberga, Sweden. 1/640s, F4.5, 35mm, ISO400 © 2009 Shawn Boye
And some things that should not have been forgotten were lost...
Kristin Boye cruising a slabby eliminate, Häller, Sweden. Please respect the sensitive nature of access at Häller.
1/400s, F4.5, 105mm, ISO400 © 2009 Shawn Boye
King Ding-A-Ling
Walker Kearney working on a project, Häller, Sweden. Please respect the sensitive nature of access at Häller. 1/800s, F4.0, 82mm, ISO125 © 2009 Shawn Boye
That Lovin' Feeling...
Walker Kearney working on a slabby project, Häller, Sweden. Please respect the sensitive nature of access at Häller.
1/500s, F4.0, 24mm, ISO320 © 2009 Shawn Boye
1/500s, F4.0, 24mm, ISO320 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Aeroflot
Thomas Eriksson on Aeroflot 7b+, Simonsberget, Sweden.
1/320s, F6.3, 28mm, ISO100 © 2009 Shawn Boye
Klassklyftan
John Juter jammin' on Klassklyftan 7A+, Bärsta, Sweden.
1/40s, F4.0, 28mm, ISO320 © 2009 Shawn Boye
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