Uppsala's finest sporting their hardware during a well deserved break on a Saturday night out on the town.
1/60, F4.0, 40 mm, ISO200 © 2010 Shawn Boye
Stockholm Classics I
Easily the best sequence at Gåseborg; Tudor is often over-looked. Only once have I seen someone on route who I did not persuade to try it and he happened to be a Dutch on vacation. Could it be that we avoid certain routes because of their grade? And did I mention, that unlike many of its neighbors, Tudor has large, soft holds? Christofer Westin on a seldom climbed Stockholm Classic, Tudor 6c, Gåseborg.
1/200, F4.0, 24 mm, ISO640 © 2010 Shawn Boye
Megadans
Harry Denanto working on the excellent crux of Megadans 7c, Skevik.
1/640, F4.0, 105 mm, ISO160 © 2010 Shawn Boye
Spring at Skevik!
Mikael Hjorth considering what awaits on Fobi 7b and Magnus Olofsson at work on Magnesia Carbonara 6c. Who knew that The upper part of Högra Väggen at Skevik was actually a slab?1/200, F5.6, 24 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye
Pride
If you look up "proud" in the thesaurus you'll find some synonyms: pleased, glad, delighted, joyful, overjoyed, thrilled, satisfied, gratified, content...Content, that's the one... Content to see Joel leading, however, I'd be delighted to see him forgo the top rope and believe in what he is capable of...
Joel Berglund making short work of Luftslottet direct 6c+, Skevik.
1/640, F5.0, 24 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye
Hardcore
Did you have holes in your shoes when you were 3? Sure you did, but any chance they were rock boots?1/640, F4.0, 105 mm, ISO125 © 2010 Shawn Boye
Slopers in the sun...
There's no doubt that temperature affects friction, but really, how much effect does it have? I'd tried Fobi 7b at Skevik once before on a chilly spring day with friction on my side and stuck the sloper, no problem. So, on the first real day of spring with the temperature at 21°C and the sloper baking in the sun all day you'd think friction would have an effect? Wrong. I sent Fobi, and here's the trick, don't let go... and if necessary, before you lob, consider the slab below the dyno for motivation.Maybe, friction like so many other things in climbing is just an excuse that we invoke when we don't really believe we will succeed? And therein lies our failure, if we are to accomplish our goals we must relinquish all else and focus, totally, on the task at hand. You're not going to stick anything if you're thinking about the lack of friction or the slab you're going to hit below (even though you won't) when you grease off.
Mikael Hjorth giving it his all, but coming up just short, dynoing to the sloper on Fobi at 21°C.
1/800, F4.0, 92 mm, ISO125 © 2010 Shawn Boye
The Mother Superior
Watch Peter Bosma on the First Ascent of Stockholm's hardest boulder, The Mother Superior, 8B.
The Sends The Mother Superior is a segment of The Sends, available from www.tielma.com as a DVD (NTSC/PAL) for $24.95 or an HD Download for $19.95.
Perspective
I have my ethics, and hope my children will adopt them, even improve on them. But should I force my ethics upon them, will they be respected? Unlikely, I'd wager there's a better chance my values persist if they respect me. Sometimes, it's important to maintain some perspective: I got my friends
And I got my children too
I got her love
She's got my love too
-Niel Young, I'm The Ocean
1/160, F4.5, 105 mm, ISO1000 © 2010 Shawn Boye
Top Ropers
Mostly harmless, Top Ropers can be found at most crags. While appearing slow, they have an uncanny ability to fasten themselves to unattended hanging ropes. A repressed and tormented group, Rikard and Joel demonstrate that this "form" of climbing can still be fun.1/200, F4.0, 24 mm, ISO250 © 2010 Shawn Boye
14 Cars...
When we got to Skevik, there were 14 cars in the parking lot, and that was before Malin showed up. Considering the encroaching swamp, it's probably a good idea to go now before you really get swarmed. Malin Holmberg cruising Nattsudd 7b+, Skevik.1/200, F8.0, 45 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye
Uppsala's Finest II
Lately, there's been some discussion regarding chopping bolts and here I am posting a picture of myself clipped to a bolt. Well, I considered trying to free Stöldförsök 7+, Predikstolen and so went about clean solo aiding it only to come to the conclusion that for me it's not possible to protect in a decent manner and, thus, I have no problem clipping the bolts. If I did, I would not climb it, but I sure wouldn't tell you what to do, that you'd have to figure out for yourself...Sometimes it's just a question of trying to steal your way up a route, especially when you feel like you're being watched... The Author preparing for the crimps above on, hands down, Uppsala's finest route.
1/400, F4.0, 60 mm, ISO200 © 2010 Kristin Boye
Uppsala's Finest I
Veera Kainiemi working on the fantastic Isokarhu, 7A+, Focksta.1/250, F4.5, 105 mm, ISO125 © 2010 Shawn Boye
Flugornas herre
Some people hunt grades to increase their social standing; others hunt grades to increase their economic viability. We just climb the lines that look good... Johanna Tiensuu Stålnacke sorting out the gear on Flugornas herre 6-, Runsa.1/250, F5.0, 84 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye
Valborg II
Why climb? Because it's there... Fueled by alcohol, Olle Morén investigates the monos hanging from the roof... 1/200, F4.0, 24 mm, ISO400 © 2010 Shawn Boye
Valborg I
Immigrants, Finnish immigrants, overheard at Valborg:"I can be the racist and you can be the pervert."
"No, not again... Why do I always have to be the pervert?"
Take no offense, ye politically correct, there's not a funnier bunch to be found...
1/200, F4.0, 40 mm, ISO400 © 2010 Shawn Boye
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