Slopers in the sun...

There's no doubt that temperature affects friction, but really, how much effect does it have? I'd tried Fobi 7b at Skevik once before on a chilly spring day with friction on my side and stuck the sloper, no problem. So, on the first real day of spring with the temperature at 21°C and the sloper baking in the sun all day you'd think friction would have an effect? Wrong. I sent Fobi, and here's the trick, don't let go... and if necessary, before you lob, consider the slab below the dyno for motivation.

Maybe, friction like so many other things in climbing is just an excuse that we invoke when we don't really believe we will succeed? And therein lies our failure, if we are to accomplish our goals we must relinquish all else and focus, totally, on the task at hand. You're not going to stick anything if you're thinking about the lack of friction or the slab you're going to hit below (even though you won't) when you grease off.

Mikael Hjorth giving it his all, but coming up just short, dynoing to the sloper on Fobi at 21°C.

1/800, F4.0, 92 mm, ISO125 © 2010 Shawn Boye

5 comments:

bumlare said...

Maybe you don't sweat?

Shawn Boye said...

Oh, I sweat...

pppp3k said...

Shawn,

Is the bolting OK? I completely rebolted Fobia in 2008. And then sent it on my first lead attempt, well, after some top rope working on the crux sequence. So, I never experienced a real fall on that slab myself.

/Peter Yakubenko

bumlare said...

@shawn maybe u are just cooler than everybody else? :-P

Shawn Boye said...

Thanks Bumlare, but unlikely, I'm actually pretty warm... I just didn't want to fall so I was pretty focused. As I alluded to, the variables involved are not so finely tuned that dialing in the concentration can't make up for a greasy sloper.

Thanks to Peter, Fobi is well bolted. The crux is the dyno a couple of moves above a slab, so the postion gets your attention. I only lead it and fell twice, it's actually much more vertical than it appears so while you fall to the slab it's a soft landing.

I stuck the greasy sloper twice, too; on my second go of the day I made a mistake between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and barndoored, got back on, redid the move and climbed to the anchor sticking the dyno without problem. So maybe, I was a bit more motivated to get it done when I sent the next go.