Tielma Productions: August 2010

That Sending Feeling...

A picture says a thousand words... Joel Berglund after sending Kapten Haddock 7a, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

At 10 meters it's practically a boulder, only you wouldn't want to boulder it... Meeting your belayer usually means a pretty soft fall and that it definitely wouldn't be without the belayer. You'd also think that there's bound to be a hard move somewhere along the way, but there's not, it's the combination of moves that makes the route.

You need to dial it in, and that's what we were working on when Jon Lindmark showed up. He asked if he could top it which we begrudgingly allowed, but undeterred, he demonstrated superb execution and hiked it until the last sloper which was giving the rest of us fits. So we continued, practicing pulling our legs up so as not to hit our belayer in the head as we in turn pitched off for a 6 meter ride. Then, he had the nerve to try and top it again, which we resoundingly denied, forcing him to tie into the sharp end. He responded by casually cruising the route with impeccable form, making it hard to believe it was a personal best. Maybe it's time for a downgrade?

Nonetheless, we continued the struggle with varied success... Jonas Wigren bearing down on the crimp that sets up the crux on Lugna gatan 7b+, Gustavbergs Vattentorn, Stockholm.

The Crux...

The crux of Agealis starts with an imposing tufa that you clip on the right before traversing left to a good pinch. Then its an iron pinch on the tufa and two shallow pockets before another good handle at the top of the tufa. Its a sequence that you'd never miss if it were a boulder problem, but 20 pumpy meters up its a whole different story... And all the while, the irrational thought exists in the back of your mind, that the rope is shearing across that tufa. Oscar Krumlinde launching into the crux of Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos.

Agealis

It is my opinion that a photo should say something, that it should somehow captivate the viewer and give some insight on life. Climbing with the inherent depth involved, not to mention the focus and desire of the climber, provides a great opportunity to capture innate aspects of the human psyche. I do not take climbing photos for beta, even though that is the primary interest of many climbers.

However, I do use a Canon 5D Mark II which means that every hold on Agealis is clearly visible in the high resolution version of this image, as you can see in the blog's background image... and I intend to make use of that information. An unknown climber entering the crux of Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos, in all its glory high over the Mediterranean; the world's most photographed sport climb and with good reason.

The Future...

Our four year old has been climbing since he could walk and when he grows up he will not remember ever having not climbed. He is also a keen observer and when concentrated has a flow to his climbing that is only seen in the very best. So what will become of his talent? Will I have a chance to make another climbing film? Above all, I hope that he enjoys climbing and gets the opportunity to see the world in a broader context, growing as a person in the process. It makes one ponder what drives us to climb...

10 Kronor

We've been working on counting to twenty, a little addition and subtraction, with our four year old. So the other day was allowance day and after having missed last week we realized that we didn't have two twenties...

Mom: I only have a 50...
The shockingly quick four year old: Well, I can give you 10 back.

We hadn't even mentioned that he was to receive 40, just that he would also get last weeks allowance as well... I burst out laughing.

Kapten Haddock

With all the talk of what's appropriate for route names we decided on Finnsvedsbergen to provided such much needed respite from the shear insanity. Who could possibly be offended by Kapten Haddock? Well, certainly there's someone in Stockholm, at this very moment, in uproar enough to throw any remaining vestige of freedom of speech to the hawks.

Jon Lindmark, more concerned about the lack of stick than the route's name, Kapten Haddock, 7a, Finnsvedsbergen.

Baggen

Almost in the bag... Björn Bergmark cutting loose on Baggen, 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen.

Bring it on!

Agealis. It's a legendary route, and probably the most photographed sport climb on the planet, good enough to go back for, bring it on!

Chief

Top of The Chief via Rock On 5.10a and Squamish Buttress 5.10c in 10 pitches. A bit of an adventure but a good day out.

Nuts

I've heard of guys chopping bolts, based on some ethical standpoint or other. Well, what about fixed gear? Same thing goes, right? So I made a point of removing this unsightly blemish from the crux of the Squamish Buttress. It took a bit of effort but maybe it makes this classic a little more exciting for your average 5.10 leader.

The Prow Wall Project

Colin Moorhead rope soloing his project on the magnificent Prow Wall, The Chief, Squamish.

Rock On

Sometimes you can lose track of just how far out you are. Rob, thinking there were only 5 meters left of the 70 meter rope on a 55 meter pitch, decided to build an anchor at just about the crux of Rock On 5.10a, The Chief, Squamish. It's not easy to climb by a guy on belay on the crux, but you do what you have to do...

Birds of Prey

Birds of Prey and Pipeline share the same start, and after the second pitch, a brilliant steep corner, you climb onto a ramp and straight ahead lies the dreaded offwidth. I was already five meters out when I realized our route involved the "boldish step up leftward", sometimes you get drawn into things... Unknown climbers below on the scrappy finishing pitch to Birds of Prey 5.10b, The Squaw, Squamish.

Lunch

What did you have for lunch? Somehow it tastes better when you catch it yourself...