At 10 meters it's practically a boulder, only you wouldn't want to boulder it... Meeting your belayer usually means a pretty soft fall and that it definitely wouldn't be without the belayer. You'd also think that there's bound to be a hard move somewhere along the way, but there's not, it's the combination of moves that makes the route.
You need to dial it in, and that's what we were working on when Jon Lindmark showed up. He asked if he could top it which we begrudgingly allowed, but undeterred, he demonstrated superb execution and hiked it until the last sloper which was giving the rest of us fits. So we continued, practicing pulling our legs up so as not to hit our belayer in the head as we in turn pitched off for a 6 meter ride. Then, he had the nerve to try and top it again, which we resoundingly denied, forcing him to tie into the sharp end. He responded by casually cruising the route with impeccable form, making it hard to believe it was a personal best. Maybe it's time for a downgrade?
Nonetheless, we continued the struggle with varied success... Jonas Wigren bearing down on the crimp that sets up the crux on Lugna gatan 7b+, Gustavbergs Vattentorn, Stockholm.
1/250s, f/2.8, ISO 320, 35 mm © 2010 Shawn Boye
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