Tielma Productions: October 2010

Aegialis.

It has been a pleasure to climb on one of the world's great routes. Shawn Boye on Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos.

SENT!

Climbing really is about the joy of sending, and sometimes you have projects that stretch from one year to the next... so finishing them off is that much sweeter.

The "Bus" sending Elefanthimmeln 5a, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos.

For some Europeans, grabbing the chains isn't an option... Simon Rawlinson, a Welshman, returned this year to clean his conscious after grabbing the chains last year on Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos.

Aegialis...

"So I guess you're done for the day..." It's not often you're told to pack it in and I figured I had energy for another go... Fortunately, Brian wasn't referring to my endurance but rather the hanger that had fallen off the fifth bolt, the sling now hanging at the fourth, which would have meant falling awfully close to the deck. Undeterred, Alfonso Pascua found the nut and using my rope as a toprope returned it to its rightful place, tightening the nut by hand... He then proceeded to test the fourth bolt with an unexpected fall before fighting the pump all the way to the anchor, which after much contemplation, he decided to grab. Brian, The American, informed me that that counts in Europe... Unfortunately, the nut is still loose, but might hold if hand tightened after each climb.

Alfonso Pascua resting on the majestic Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos.

Aegialis...

The crux of Aegialis involves traversing across a tufa, on which the rope gets stuck, leaving the irrational thought of a sheared rope in the back of your mind... Unfazed, Katja Bajec, walked Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos, resting on almost every hold, easily the most impressive climb I've seen here so far, especially considering I know all the moves...

My Long Holiday

It was slabby, they were from Scotland; they didn't make it look easy but they did enjoy every moment of it, even if it was bolted... My Long Holiday 6c, Afternoon, Kalymnos.

DNA

DNA 7a+, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos, in the afternoon sun....

Priapos

For a Scot, only heroin could get you this close to the otherworldly climbing of Priapos 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos...

Agealis...

All the moves done... The crux of Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos, that didn't much feel like the crux. Now, if just the cold would go away...

Buttshot...

Les circus de Spartacus....

Chased!

With 11 climbers on the wall at the same time, you have to climb quickly... Kristin Boye in the lead on the fantastic tuffas of Les Amazones 6c, Spartacus, Kalymnos.

Kalymnos

Not a bad view, eh?

Brown Sugar

Fall is here and the good stick that comes with it too, but we're off to Kalymnos... Henry Tang Kai on Brown Sugar 6b+, Nacka Kvarn, Stockholm.

Complete Denial

"The crux is too high on this one." Jon Lindmark trying to shake off the pump on Totalvägra 7a, Nacka Kvarn, Stockholm.

Freaky Deaky

An aptly named climb considering the placement of the third bolt... Thomas Nygård on the steep Freaky Deaky 7a+, Nacka Kvarn, Stockholm.

Norrlands Beta

There's something special about the north, maybe it's the cold winters, the contrasts between the seasons, the distance and space, the slower pace, that brings people together. We tend to have a greater appreciation for each other when life is harder.

It's always a pleasure to climb with the good folk from Norrland, they're an inclusive and supportive bunch and they know their climbs. There's nothing quite like Norrlands beta, it's like the sixth man of climbing, you know in advance what you don't; forget visualization, just listen, climb and you'll be fine...

Considering the circumstances, its tough to judge, but it's unlikely it holds the grade; knowing exactly where to go and how to get there... Shawn Boye flashing Lutande tornet 7a+, Nacka Kvarn, Stockholm.

Goal Orientation

As climbers we try to push ourselves, some more than others; similarly, we place different value on our accomplishments. For some it's the journey, not just the goal that matters... What are you looking for in your next climb?

Shawn Boye enjoyng, for a couple of minutes, mastery of Breña 7b+, Ekoberget, Stockholm. Then it's on to the next one...

Breña

Often we play to our strengths, but to improve we would do well to focus on our weaknesses. While Breña doesn't appear to be much more than a couple of boulders, the technical nature of the route does not reward misplaced feet... The sum is greater than the parts, providing a sense of appreciation for each bolt. Add to that a majestic fall day at Baggensfjärden and you've got an absolutely fantastic route.

Shawn Boye gliding up the tricksy Breña 7b+, Ekoberget, Stockholm.