Tielma Productions: 2011

Almtuna vs. Troja

It's not been a good season for Almtuna and Robin Dahlström's goal with about 5 minutes to go in the third put the game away and might have sealed their fate for the season. It looks like relegation. Of note, the 10 Troja fans made considerably more noise than the 60 Almtuna fans. It's been a steep dive since almost qualifying for Elitserien...

Timbuktu

The things unstable weather can make you do... Then again, Jason Diakité is worth seeing even on a good weather day, a class act with a message worth listening to. Timbuktu, backed by Damn at Uppsala Koncert and Kongress, 2011-12-08.

Untermensch!

To embrace the night, darkness, is not to become less but rather to open one's mind to more possibilities. And in this case, it involves removing the pads to avoid a dab. Which didn't seem to be a problem at the time... At the time I felt that X-rays of my foot might tell a different story. It also calls to mind an incident a few years back which might have led to the prescription of a little Lithium. I recommend chalking any potentially wet top outs to avoid the necessity of repeating what was already difficult to do in the first place...

It's a strange dyno, more like grabbing at something while falling away than thrusting toward it, yet when it goes, it's effortless. Shawn Boye almost sticking the dyno on Untermensch! 7B+, Focksta. The send would come a little later during, this, the second session.

Matilda Nordman

Matilda Nordman, Finland, Scandinavian Junior Boulder Champion. Seldom do you see a climber move so effortlessly, a real talent.

Benjamin Linné Ryn

Benjamin Linné Ryn, Sweden, Scandinavian Junior Boulder Champion. Dude is strong!

Anders Kvåle Farestveit

Anders Kvåle Farestveit, Norway, Scandinavian Boulder Runner Up 94-95.

Katrine Vandet Salling

Katrine Vandet Salling, Denmark, Scandinavian Boulder Champion 94-95.

Boulder JNM 2011

Well, the future is now and man, I'm psyched! Check out the entire set on Flikr... Hanna Carlsson cutting loose at the Scandinavian Junior Boulder Championships, Klättercentret Telefonplan, Stockholm.

Untermensch!

I have a mantra for climbing success, its as simple as "Don't let go!" Unfortunately, this might not apply to low ball bouldering and the dreaded "dab". Untermensch! is such a problem, you can stick the jug and still not send, the crux being to keep your cutting foot off the pad. Shawn Boye working Untermensch! 7B+, Focksta.

Humanus Inferior

We come out at night, under the cover of darkness, free from the fear of persecution... Christoffer Westin working Untermensch! 7B+, Focksta on a sticky winter evening.

Bananbänken (Banana bench)

A canopy, the perfect set up, Per figured it "Looks like a christmas tree." It's getting to be that time of the year, let's hope the stick sticks around a little while yet... Per Arnsäter fighting and sending Bananbänken 6C, Fiby.

What else would you do on a Thursday night?

Starry conditions and -2 °C, "What else would you do on a Thursday night?" wondered Emil Ragnarsson. Despite his amorous overture and delicate crimps Med Ena Foten i Bäcken 7A, Fiby steadfastly resisted. The trick is to stand up on your right foot and for me, after a decade of on again-off again attempts its all over.

Tottes Hund (Tottes Dog)

Some guys go out in the forest and take pictures of themselves, for whatever reasons. I suppose it's both promotional and artistically challenging, nonetheless, its much more fun to share the experience. Jonas Wigren sticking the "other" crimp on Tottes Hund 7A+, Fiby, Sweden.

Med Ena Foten i Bäcken (With one foot in the creek)

It doesn't really matter how you hold the intermediate so long as your right foot sticks and you can stand up. However, when it's sharp it pays to have, and stick to, a game plan. It's been maybe 10 years but now I've got my beta, I'm just waiting for the tips to heal. Strange that after all those years, the stunning arête to the left still hasn't seen an ascent...

Jonas Wigren making the most of good footwork and sticky conditions sending Med Ena Foten i Bäcken 7A, Fiby, Sweden.

Med hela foten i träsket (With the foot in the swamp)

The choice of lipstick? I have no idea... but apparently, her other foot was in the marsh. Unable to reach arête to arête, Veera Kainiemi is forced to sort out her own beta on Med hela foten i träsket 6A+, Focksta, Sweden

Scarred?

So... who do you think is more scarred, Veera or the bloc? Veera Kainiemi attempting to top out Mysk 5C, Focksta, Sweden

African Herbsman

Well, he doesn't have any dreads but nonetheless... The night season upon us, African Herbsman 7B at Ålandsdal is close to the road and an excellent problem. The trick with this one is to pull your body to the right when catching to the sloper. You don't need to get that high, just hit the sloper right and its over, even if the temps are still a bit high. Per Arnsäter sticking and sending African Herbsman 7B, Uppsala, Sweden.

Västervik International Boulder Meet 2011

Västervik International Boulder Meet 2011 from Shawn Boye on Vimeo.

Watch Anthony Gullsten, Guntram Jörg, Chris Webb Parsons and Alex Puccio send some of Västerviks finest boulder problems during the Västervik International Boulder Meet 2011, Västervik, Sweden. Featuring More Than One Way To Skin A Cat 8A, Storm 8A, Goofhead Variant 8A+, The Hourglass Sds 8B, The Office Sds 8A and Namaste 8A+.

Fall Collection

Jonas Wigren sporting sending colors at Dödeskalleberget, Stockholm, Sweden. Do you think they'd admit him to the Tyresö Sjökrog?

Palpation

It's an obvious and foreboding line, an overhanging dihedral topped by a bouldery finish. At least the rock is solid. Jonas Wigren looking to stick the arête on Puls 7c+, Skevik, Stockholm, Sweden.

La Sportiva Legends Only

Paul Robinson enjoying the results of his battle with problem #4 at La Sportiva Legends Only, Klättercentret Telefonplan, Stockholm, Sweden. A fantastic event, see all the photos on Flikr.

Café con leche

Café con leche is the line that catches your eye every evening as your walk out of the gorge on your way to Kalandraka for an after climb. It doesn't climb like it looks but it is as good as it looks, and in a slightly different style than many of the other steep routes at Rodellar. Another great route but bring a wrench, the bolt below the crux was loose. Shawn Boye sending Café con leche 7b, Café Solo, Rodellar, Spain.

Pequeño Pablo

Maybe not the best warmup, it's pumper than it looks, my forearms were burning for a good 5 minutes after clipping the chains but the fight was worth it. Shawn Boye sending Pequeño Pablo 7a+, Egocentrismo, Rodellar, Spain.

La más fea de Sevillia

It can be an idea to take into account the name of the climb, however, the rare sight of a slab sent Linda's reason running like water down a canyon. Fortunately, in the end, after a turbulent battle she did emerge victorious.

Linda Sandgren working on the wrong side of vertical on La más fea de Sevillia 6c, El Callejón, Rodellar, Spain.

Technique

Yes. Helen Manancourt cruising No hay pico con lagunas 6b+, Pince sans rire, Rodellar, Spain.

Tool

The use of tools separates us from most other animals, the complexity of which we often take for granted. What sort of tools are we capable of constructing, with our own hands, should the need arise? And how does our reliance on the industrial framework affect our ability to evolve society? Linda Sandgren having a paleolithic snack, Rodellar, Spain.

Pasaba por aquí

Björn Bergmark clipping some big fat, screw-on, ring bolt on Pasaba por aquí 7a, El Callejón, Rodellar, Spain.

Beauty and the Beast

Pince sans rire is an absolutely stunning black tuffa that catches your eye from across the valley. However, the route was bolted using expansion bolts, and being steep and popular leads to excessive vibration on decent that results in loose nuts.

Putting up the slings I discovered, rather unpleasantly considering the spacious bolting, that the nut on the seventh bolt was loose. A fall above the seventh bolt which could happen considering the pumpy nature of the route, in which the nut, hanger and sling came off could easily result in the climber cratering on the slab below, around the third bolt. A rather unappealing notion.

The solution, tighten the bolt by hand, as I didn't have a wrench with me, and don't let go. Unfortunately, loose nuts were so common in Rodellar that I took to automatically clipping the sling, testing and tightening the bolt by hand and then clipping the rope. I'll definitely have a wrench on my harness the next time I go to Rodellar but it would be nice to see more glue in bolts.

Shawn Boye, motivated after hand tightening a nut, sending Pince sans rire 7b+ second go, Rodellar, Spain.

Sopas de ajo

Helen Manancourt dancing her way up Sopas de ajo 7b+, Gran Bóveda, Rodellar, Spain.

Conejo caliente

Gym climbing at El Camino, Rodellar. I'd been advised that it's jugs, but its not jugs, which I suppose depends on how many meters you got in, in advance. Shawn Boye hopping up Conejo caliente 7a+, El Camino, Rodellar, Spain.

Distraction

Shawn Boye distracted by some Spaniard in the roof before getting revenge on Pire en el Fire 7a, Pince sans rire, Rodellar, Spain.

The View...

How can you enjoy the view when you don't send? Shawn Boye after making a mistake on Pire en el Fire 7a, Pince sans rire, Rodellar, Spain. Revenge was had...

L'ombra de la barca

Linda Söderlund working her way up La hombre de la barca 6b+, Aquest any sí, Rodellar, Spain.

El Delfín

The arch with what appears to be some missing grips... Linda Sandgren and some American claiming El Delfín, their own way.

God txingu good

Linda Sandgren bearing down on God txingu good 6b+, El Camino, Rodellar, Spain in soon to be sunny conditions.

Toma Castanazo

Yet another shot of a white shirt, this time Henrik Nilsson concentrating on clipping after a bouldery start on Toma Castanazo 7a+, El Camino, Rodellar, Spain.

Non-Stop

Yet another one from the archive, going all the way back to when the leaves were green. This time, an unknown Göteborgare in white headed the wrong way on Non-Stop 7b, Skevik, Stockholm. Hopefully he'll spred the word that the grades are stiff in Stockholm. Or maybe you've got the point by now, that I didn't send, but maybe October will be sunny...