Tielma Productions: September 2010

Psyche!

There's really only one way to approach sending, complete commitment, or in the words of Jonas Wigren, "A whipper is good for the moral." Too true...

The Photographer has a Big Apparatus...

Well, it was a different route but we weren't that far off... Linda Sandgren delivering for the photo shoot on Nedkomsten 5c, Ekoberget, Stockholm.

Know your history?

So it doesn't happen again... We're not keeping anything alive but a reminder of what should never be allowed to reoccur. Censorship is for the ignorant and/or manipulative...

Big man, Magnus Olofsson bearing down on the small crimps of Tirpitz 7a+, Gåseborg, Stockholm.

Boulder Bash

Ry Morrison topping out the final problem to win Boulder Bash at Klätterverket.

Contrast

A climber, a down jacket and skinny dipper... a photo full of contrasts. Jonas Wigren, back at work, on Baggen 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

Some of the allure in sport climbing definitely lies in the knowledge that when you work a route it's easy to see the possibility of a send. It's equally easy to forget the impact of lactic acid, or so called "pump" and the difficulty of executing under stress. While climbing can be thought of as many different things, in it's finer forms it is, no doubt, a path to greater self awareness through focusing both body and mind to find the ability to finish.

Nonetheless, sport climbing does involve a degree of hanging around which leaves time for a joke or two... Foiled by pump, after three moves, Fredrik Sydstrand contemplates the impact of bouldering and its affect on his attempt to reclaim his route at Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

Contemplation...

There are times when we hang there, uncertain of how to proceed or what to do next. It can be frustrating, but it is in these moments that we find the means to overcome... Christoffer Westin contemplating the crux of Kattöga 7b+, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

Sent!

A couple of days before I sent, I was told it wasn't 8a. That I had an advantage being tall, making the first move on the route substantially easier. At that point, I'd tried the route twice, both times falling off above the crux on a move, that for me, is difficult due to my height; it goes both ways. Regardless, it didn't really matter what the grade was, it's a fantastic route and I was going to send...

All in all, it took five tries, that is, if you discount the numerous attempts to figure out the start moves and one attempt on the non direct version. Three of the four falls came on the above mentioned move, the fourth and final fall on the next to last, which I learned, thereafter, could be done a much easier way.

For me, it's tough to say what the grade is, it honestly felt as if it were 7a, but the powerful style of the climb definitely suits me and I had it dialed. Not that it matters, grading is always subjective, but a send is not. For the moment, I'll trust the community's consensus of the grade, though it's tough to know since I'm not going to disregard my boycott over some number... I'll reserve opinion until I've sent a few more at the grade.

Shawn Boye crusing the crux on Tintin direkt 8a, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

Anticipation...

I'm going to send, it's not a declaration, it's confidence based in knowledge of what I feel to be possible. This conviction does not add pressure, instead it strengthens the resolve to pull through. What's your chance for success? Shawn Boye going through the moves on Tintin direkt 8a, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

Dejection?

We're all looking to send, but when you're shut down does it leave you wanting more? Sure, once you've sent, there's that moment of jubilation and then it's off to the next problem. But when you're denied, there's the desire to overcome, a way to find, a challenge to meet, that results in the euphoria of the send. We climb to overcome? Jonas Wigren looking forward on Baggen 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.