A couple of days before I sent, I was told it wasn't 8a. That I had an advantage being tall, making the first move on the route substantially easier. At that point, I'd tried the route twice, both times falling off above the crux on a move, that for me, is difficult due to my height; it goes both ways. Regardless, it didn't really matter what the grade was, it's a fantastic route and I was going to send... All in all, it took five tries, that is, if you discount the numerous attempts to figure out the start moves and one attempt on the non direct version. Three of the four falls came on the above mentioned move, the fourth and final fall on the next to last, which I learned, thereafter, could be done a much easier way.
For me, it's tough to say what the grade is, it honestly felt as if it were 7a, but the powerful style of the climb definitely suits me and I had it dialed. Not that it matters, grading is always subjective, but a send is not. For the moment, I'll trust the community's consensus of the grade, though it's tough to know since I'm not going to disregard my boycott over some number... I'll reserve opinion until I've sent a few more at the grade.
Shawn Boye crusing the crux on Tintin direkt 8a, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.
1/500s, f/5.0, ISO 100, 16 mm © 2010 Tielma Productions. Photo Samual Janzon
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