Showing posts with label Finnsvedsbergen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Finnsvedsbergen. Show all posts

Camaraderie

I could mention the rope, crag, grade, route, swim, slab but none of that would convey the camaraderie that is climbing. Shawn Boye staying dry, with the help of Jonas Wigren, descending Sjöjungfrun 6a+, Finnsvedsberget, Stockholm, Sweden.

1/200s, f/7.1, ISO 100, 50 mm Photo Linda Sandgren © 2011 Tielma Productions

Cat Eyes

At these temps its a roll of the dice... Samual Janzon ejecting from the greasy sloper on Kattöga 7b+, Finnsvedsberget, Stockholm, Sweden.

1/320s, f/8.0, ISO 100, 50 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Bagged

Baggen is a route that seems to have gotten an abnormal amount of attention; the justification being that it has been Jonas' nemesis for a year or so, a wonderful combination of crimps, power and endurance that has finally been put to rest? Jonas Wigren, eyes wide shut, working Baggen 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm, Sweden.

1/250s, f/8.0, ISO 100, 50 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Here's a look back...


A climber, a down jacket and skinny dipper... a photo full of contrasts. Jonas Wigren, back at work, on Baggen 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

1/400s, f/6.3, ISO 100, 26 mm © 2010 Shawn Boye


We're all looking to send, but when you're shut down does it leave you wanting more? Sure, once you've sent, there's that moment of jubilation and then it's off to the next problem. But when you're denied, there's the desire to overcome, a way to find, a challenge to meet, that results in the euphoria of the send. We climb to overcome? Jonas Wigren looking forward on Baggen 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

1/500s, f/3.2, ISO 250, 35 mm © 2010 Shawn Boye


Almost in the bag... Björn Bergmark cutting loose on Baggen, 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen.

1/320s, f/7.1, ISO 100, 35 mm © 2010 Shawn Boye

In the Bag.

Christoffer Westin bagging another tick, Baggen 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm

1/400s, f/8.0, ISO 100, 200 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Contrast

A climber, a down jacket and skinny dipper... a photo full of contrasts. Jonas Wigren, back at work, on Baggen 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

1/400s, f/6.3, ISO 100, 26 mm © 2010 Shawn Boye

The Wherewithal...

Some of the allure in sport climbing definitely lies in the knowledge that when you work a route it's easy to see the possibility of a send. It's equally easy to forget the impact of lactic acid, or so called "pump" and the difficulty of executing under stress. While climbing can be thought of as many different things, in it's finer forms it is, no doubt, a path to greater self awareness through focusing both body and mind to find the ability to finish.

Nonetheless, sport climbing does involve a degree of hanging around which leaves time for a joke or two... Foiled by pump, after three moves, Fredrik Sydstrand contemplates the impact of bouldering and its affect on his attempt to reclaim his route at Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

1/500s, f/4.0, ISO 100, 175 mm © 2010 Shawn Boye

Contemplation...

There are times when we hang there, uncertain of how to proceed or what to do next. It can be frustrating, but it is in these moments that we find the means to overcome... Christoffer Westin contemplating the crux of Kattöga 7b+, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

1/500s, f/7.1, ISO 100, 200 mm © 2010 Shawn Boye

Sent!

A couple of days before I sent, I was told it wasn't 8a. That I had an advantage being tall, making the first move on the route substantially easier. At that point, I'd tried the route twice, both times falling off above the crux on a move, that for me, is difficult due to my height; it goes both ways. Regardless, it didn't really matter what the grade was, it's a fantastic route and I was going to send...

All in all, it took five tries, that is, if you discount the numerous attempts to figure out the start moves and one attempt on the non direct version. Three of the four falls came on the above mentioned move, the fourth and final fall on the next to last, which I learned, thereafter, could be done a much easier way.

For me, it's tough to say what the grade is, it honestly felt as if it were 7a, but the powerful style of the climb definitely suits me and I had it dialed. Not that it matters, grading is always subjective, but a send is not. For the moment, I'll trust the community's consensus of the grade, though it's tough to know since I'm not going to disregard my boycott over some number... I'll reserve opinion until I've sent a few more at the grade.

Shawn Boye crusing the crux on Tintin direkt 8a, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

1/500s, f/5.0, ISO 100, 16 mm © 2010 Tielma Productions. Photo Samual Janzon

Anticipation...

I'm going to send, it's not a declaration, it's confidence based in knowledge of what I feel to be possible. This conviction does not add pressure, instead it strengthens the resolve to pull through. What's your chance for success? Shawn Boye going through the moves on Tintin direkt 8a, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

1/500s, f/2.8, ISO 125, 35 mm © 2010 Tielma Productions. Photo Joel Berglund

Dejection?

We're all looking to send, but when you're shut down does it leave you wanting more? Sure, once you've sent, there's that moment of jubilation and then it's off to the next problem. But when you're denied, there's the desire to overcome, a way to find, a challenge to meet, that results in the euphoria of the send. We climb to overcome? Jonas Wigren looking forward on Baggen 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

1/500s, f/3.2, ISO 250, 35 mm © 2010 Shawn Boye

That Sending Feeling...

A picture says a thousand words... Joel Berglund after sending Kapten Haddock 7a, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

1/500s, f/4.5, ISO 100, 16 mm © 2010 Shawn Boye

Kapten Haddock


With all the talk of what's appropriate for route names we decided on Finnsvedsbergen to provided such much needed respite from the shear insanity. Who could possibly be offended by Kapten Haddock? Well, certainly there's someone in Stockholm, at this very moment, in uproar enough to throw any remaining vestige of freedom of speech to the hawks.

Jon Lindmark, more concerned about the lack of stick than the route's name, Kapten Haddock, 7a, Finnsvedsbergen.

1/500s, f/5.0, ISO 100, 16 mm © 2010 Shawn Boye

Baggen

Almost in the bag... Björn Bergmark cutting loose on Baggen, 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen.

1/320s, f/7.1, ISO 100, 35 mm © 2010 Shawn Boye