Spring at Skevik!

Mikael Hjorth considering what awaits on Fobi 7b and Magnus Olofsson at work on Magnesia Carbonara 6c. Who knew that The upper part of Högra Väggen at Skevik was actually a slab?

1/200, F5.6, 24 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye

Slopers in the sun...

There's no doubt that temperature affects friction, but really, how much effect does it have? I'd tried Fobi 7b at Skevik once before on a chilly spring day with friction on my side and stuck the sloper, no problem. So, on the first real day of spring with the temperature at 21°C and the sloper baking in the sun all day you'd think friction would have an effect? Wrong. I sent Fobi, and here's the trick, don't let go... and if necessary, before you lob, consider the slab below the dyno for motivation.

Maybe, friction like so many other things in climbing is just an excuse that we invoke when we don't really believe we will succeed? And therein lies our failure, if we are to accomplish our goals we must relinquish all else and focus, totally, on the task at hand. You're not going to stick anything if you're thinking about the lack of friction or the slab you're going to hit below (even though you won't) when you grease off.

Mikael Hjorth giving it his all, but coming up just short, dynoing to the sloper on Fobi at 21°C.

1/800, F4.0, 92 mm, ISO125 © 2010 Shawn Boye