Two sides of the ârete

Petter Åsander and Anders Diseberg placing gear on Granitbiten and Hassan Chop, Skälefjäll, Bohuslän, Sweden. © 2012 Shawn Boye

1/640s, f/5.0, ISO 800, 70 mm © 2012 Shawn Boye

Hassan Chop: Stem

Mikael Ylinen sending Hassan Chop, Skälefjäll, Bohuslän, Sweden. © 2012 Shawn Boye

1/320s, f/2.8, ISO 200, 40 mm © 2012 Shawn Boye

Hassan Chop: Layback

Anders Diseberg attempting to layback Hassan Chop, Skälefjäll, Bohuslän, Sweden. © 2012 Shawn Boye

1/500s, f/2.8, ISO 200, 50 mm © 2012 Shawn Boye

En Liten Bit Granit

Anders Nyberg working on En Liten Bit Granit, Skälefjäll, Bohuslän, Sweden.

1/250s, f/2.8, ISO 200, 50 mm © 2012 Shawn Boye

Huvudleden

Samual Janzon sending Huvudleden 7-/7 at Skevik, a must do, with the sun setting.

1/640s, f/2.8, ISO 100, 90 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Linda Sandgren

Linda Sandgren ready for one more after topping out Prismaster 6-, Hallinden, Bohuslän, Sweden.

1/500s, f/1.8, ISO 100, 50 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Boel Aniansson

Boel Aniansson, Bohuslän, Sweden.

1/1000s, f/2.8, ISO 100, 50 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

The Day Before

It was raining. To us, everything seemed like it would be wet. We went home. Martin went to Häller. You are in our thoughts. Martin Skaar Olslund the day before, after cruising Torline 7-, Häller, Bohuslän, Sweden.

1/800s, f/1.8, ISO 200, 50 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Prismaster

Boel Aniansson looking for that prized jam on Prismaster 6-, Hallinden, Bohuslän, Sweden.

1/400s, f/8.0, ISO 100, 50 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Jammin'

Or at least trying to... Shawn Boye coming to terms with the finger locks on the classic Slimline 7+ at Välseröd, Bohuslän, Sweden.

***12:30: Update from Välseröd, just sent!***

1/2500s, f/4.0, ISO 400, 50 mm Photo Linda Sandgren © 2011 Tielma Productions

Villskudd

An adventure in route finding... Shawn Boye onsighting the classic Villskudd 6- at Välseröd, Bohuslän, Sweden.

1/8000s, f/1.8, ISO 100, 50 mm Photo Anders Diseberg © 2011 Tielma Productions

Kuling

It's jugs all the way but there's still gear to sort out... a slightly skeptical climber on Kuling 5c, Vårdberget.

1/800s, f/2.8, ISO 100, 35 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Dolly

Linda Sandgren attempting to onsight Dolly, Vårdberget.

1/3200s, f/2.8, ISO 100, 35 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Granitbiten

Anders Diseberg cruising the perfect layback crack Granitbiten 7-, Skälefjäll, Bohuslän.

1/320s, f/4.0, ISO 400, 30 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Racked 'n Ready!

Sometimes the focus of leading off into the unknown can cause strange things to happen... Maybe it's time to expand the Buddy Check, at least for certain people.

1/640s, f/1.4, ISO 100, 50 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Bagatell

Marre Ågerstrand pondering her next move on the fantastic Bagatell 6+, Galgeberget, Bohuslän.

1/2000s, f/1.8, ISO 100, 50 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Sport Climbing is Neither...

So what's headpointing? I'm not a fan, but I made an exception on Huvudleden, Skevik, considering the chossy nature of the crag. It's a completely different approach, rapping in to check the gear, top-ropping, placing gear on top-rope and finally tying into the sharp end. At which point there was no drama left, only execution, which makes the whole process seem rather unsporty. Maybe, this is dependent on the difficulty of the climb, relative to the climber, or the ability to protect the climb but it seems pretty hard to trash a sport climber onsighting at or near their maximum as not being sport.

Luckily, after sending, I did get an opportunity to experience real "sport" as another climber attempted and successfully, though shakily, managed to onsight the route. An enrapturing and inspiring climb that should leave an asterix beside ticks that employ headpointing. At least I didn't touch any of the many rusty pitons on the route, and neither did the other climber, that definitely aren't needed and shouldn't be there. Then again, thinking about it, a send is a send, especially with a name like the route has, you can't help but climb it.

Shawn Boye, unracked from all the gear Huvudleden 6c+, Skevik, can suck up, recounting the experience of "jammin".

1/50s, f/2.8, ISO 100, 33 mm Photo Linda Sandgren © 2011 Tielma Productions

Superhero?

Unlikely, but it is Lois Lane. Martin Breed with the onsight, Grönbrinksberget, Stockholm.

1/1250s, f/2.8, ISO 100, 35 mm © 2011 Shawn Boye

Chief

Top of The Chief via Rock On 5.10a and Squamish Buttress 5.10c in 10 pitches. A bit of an adventure but a good day out.

1/200s, f/8.0, ISO 80, 4.6 mm © 2010 Shawn Boye

Nuts

I've heard of guys chopping bolts, based on some ethical standpoint or other. Well, what about fixed gear? Same thing goes, right? So I made a point of removing this unsightly blemish from the crux of the Squamish Buttress. It took a bit of effort but maybe it makes this classic a little more exciting for your average 5.10 leader.

1/160s, f/8.0, ISO 80, 4.6 mm © 2010 Shawn Boye