Tielma Productions: October 2011

Fall Collection

Jonas Wigren sporting sending colors at Dödeskalleberget, Stockholm, Sweden. Do you think they'd admit him to the Tyresö Sjökrog?

Palpation

It's an obvious and foreboding line, an overhanging dihedral topped by a bouldery finish. At least the rock is solid. Jonas Wigren looking to stick the arête on Puls 7c+, Skevik, Stockholm, Sweden.

La Sportiva Legends Only

Paul Robinson enjoying the results of his battle with problem #4 at La Sportiva Legends Only, Klättercentret Telefonplan, Stockholm, Sweden. A fantastic event, see all the photos on Flikr.

Café con leche is the line that catches your eye every evening as your walk out of the gorge on your way to Kalandraka for an after climb. It doesn't climb like it looks but it is as good as it looks, and in a slightly different style than many of the other steep routes at Rodellar. Another great route but bring a wrench, the bolt below the crux was loose. Shawn Boye sending Café con leche 7b, Café Solo, Rodellar, Spain.

Pequeño Pablo

Maybe not the best warmup, it's pumper than it looks, my forearms were burning for a good 5 minutes after clipping the chains but the fight was worth it. Shawn Boye sending Pequeño Pablo 7a+, Egocentrismo, Rodellar, Spain.

La más fea de Sevillia

It can be an idea to take into account the name of the climb, however, the rare sight of a slab sent Linda's reason running like water down a canyon. Fortunately, in the end, after a turbulent battle she did emerge victorious.

Linda Sandgren working on the wrong side of vertical on La más fea de Sevillia 6c, El Callejón, Rodellar, Spain.

Technique

Yes. Helen Manancourt cruising No hay pico con lagunas 6b+, Pince sans rire, Rodellar, Spain.

Tool

The use of tools separates us from most other animals, the complexity of which we often take for granted. What sort of tools are we capable of constructing, with our own hands, should the need arise? And how does our reliance on the industrial framework affect our ability to evolve society? Linda Sandgren having a paleolithic snack, Rodellar, Spain.

Pasaba por aquí

Björn Bergmark clipping some big fat, screw-on, ring bolt on Pasaba por aquí 7a, El Callejón, Rodellar, Spain.

Beauty and the Beast

Pince sans rire is an absolutely stunning black tuffa that catches your eye from across the valley. However, the route was bolted using expansion bolts, and being steep and popular leads to excessive vibration on decent that results in loose nuts.

Putting up the slings I discovered, rather unpleasantly considering the spacious bolting, that the nut on the seventh bolt was loose. A fall above the seventh bolt which could happen considering the pumpy nature of the route, in which the nut, hanger and sling came off could easily result in the climber cratering on the slab below, around the third bolt. A rather unappealing notion.

The solution, tighten the bolt by hand, as I didn't have a wrench with me, and don't let go. Unfortunately, loose nuts were so common in Rodellar that I took to automatically clipping the sling, testing and tightening the bolt by hand and then clipping the rope. I'll definitely have a wrench on my harness the next time I go to Rodellar but it would be nice to see more glue in bolts.

Shawn Boye, motivated after hand tightening a nut, sending Pince sans rire 7b+ second go, Rodellar, Spain.

Sopas de ajo

Helen Manancourt dancing her way up Sopas de ajo 7b+, Gran Bóveda, Rodellar, Spain.

Conejo caliente

Gym climbing at El Camino, Rodellar. I'd been advised that it's jugs, but its not jugs, which I suppose depends on how many meters you got in, in advance. Shawn Boye hopping up Conejo caliente 7a+, El Camino, Rodellar, Spain.

Distraction

Shawn Boye distracted by some Spaniard in the roof before getting revenge on Pire en el Fire 7a, Pince sans rire, Rodellar, Spain.

The View...

How can you enjoy the view when you don't send? Shawn Boye after making a mistake on Pire en el Fire 7a, Pince sans rire, Rodellar, Spain. Revenge was had...

L'ombra de la barca

Linda Söderlund working her way up La hombre de la barca 6b+, Aquest any sí, Rodellar, Spain.

El Delfín

The arch with what appears to be some missing grips... Linda Sandgren and some American claiming El Delfín, their own way.

God txingu good

Linda Sandgren bearing down on God txingu good 6b+, El Camino, Rodellar, Spain in soon to be sunny conditions.

Toma Castanazo

Yet another shot of a white shirt, this time Henrik Nilsson concentrating on clipping after a bouldery start on Toma Castanazo 7a+, El Camino, Rodellar, Spain.