It is my understanding that Rikard Hedman has climbed this route before, maybe even a few times... Serial repeatist? Yet, Utan Smör at Örnberget always finds a way to reinvent itself, especially in the spring, and at least twice this day... 
Gym climbing at a chipped choss pile. Erik Massih estimated this variant to have "maybe three natural grips". Is a variable ethic somehow justifiable depending on the quality of the rock?
1/200, F5.0, 105 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye
"About that time when I wrote Heart of Gold, and I was touring, I had also -- just, you know, being a rich hippie for the first time -- I had purchased a ranch, and I still live there today. And there was a couple living on it that were the caretakers, an old gentleman named Louis Avala and his wife Clara. And there was this old blue Jeep there, and Louis took me for a ride in this blue Jeep. He gets me up there on the top side of the place, and there's this lake up there that fed all the pastures, and he says, "Well, tell me, how does a young man like yourself have enough money to buy a place like this?" And I said, "Well, just lucky, Louie, just real lucky." And he said, "Well, that's the darndest thing I ever heard." And I wrote this song for him."
—Neil Young
1/640, F4.0, 82 mm, ISO125 © 2010 Shawn Boye
We've all heard of the mechanic who drives the beat up car and we hold a certain skepticism for the climber with shinny gear. So, where is the middle ground? Erik Massih on the variable traits of gravity: "Why would I waste a 70 or 80 meter rope at a crag like this?"
1/200, F5.0, 105 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye
When pressed, when not sure what to do or where to go, how do you respond? What are your opportunities for success? How often do you say "Take!"?
Felix de Oliveira searching for the next hold on Girburken 6c, Uringe. A short but excellent climb that keeps you guessing; you know where you have to go but it's not quite clear how you're going to get there. Go before the bugs do...