Tielma Productions

Out on the Town...

Uppsala's finest sporting their hardware during a well deserved break on a Saturday night out on the town.

Easily the best sequence at Gåseborg; Tudor is often over-looked. Only once have I seen someone on route who I did not persuade to try it and he happened to be a Dutch on vacation. Could it be that we avoid certain routes because of their grade? And did I mention, that unlike many of its neighbors, Tudor has large, soft holds? Christofer Westin on a seldom climbed Stockholm Classic, Tudor 6c, Gåseborg.

Megadans

Harry Denanto working on the excellent crux of Megadans 7c, Skevik.

Spring at Skevik!

Mikael Hjorth considering what awaits on Fobi 7b and Magnus Olofsson at work on Magnesia Carbonara 6c. Who knew that The upper part of Högra Väggen at Skevik was actually a slab?

Pride

If you look up "proud" in the thesaurus you'll find some synonyms: pleased, glad, delighted, joyful, overjoyed, thrilled, satisfied, gratified, content...

Content, that's the one... Content to see Joel leading, however, I'd be delighted to see him forgo the top rope and believe in what he is capable of...

Joel Berglund making short work of Luftslottet direct 6c+, Skevik.

1/640, F5.0, 24 mm, ISO100 © 2010 Shawn Boye

Hardcore

Did you have holes in your shoes when you were 3? Sure you did, but any chance they were rock boots?

Slopers in the sun...

There's no doubt that temperature affects friction, but really, how much effect does it have? I'd tried Fobi 7b at Skevik once before on a chilly spring day with friction on my side and stuck the sloper, no problem. So, on the first real day of spring with the temperature at 21°C and the sloper baking in the sun all day you'd think friction would have an effect? Wrong. I sent Fobi, and here's the trick, don't let go... and if necessary, before you lob, consider the slab below the dyno for motivation.

Maybe, friction like so many other things in climbing is just an excuse that we invoke when we don't really believe we will succeed? And therein lies our failure, if we are to accomplish our goals we must relinquish all else and focus, totally, on the task at hand. You're not going to stick anything if you're thinking about the lack of friction or the slab you're going to hit below (even though you won't) when you grease off.

Mikael Hjorth giving it his all, but coming up just short, dynoing to the sloper on Fobi at 21°C.