Tielma Productions: 2010

Aegialis.

It has been a pleasure to climb on one of the world's great routes. Shawn Boye on Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos.

SENT!

Climbing really is about the joy of sending, and sometimes you have projects that stretch from one year to the next... so finishing them off is that much sweeter.

The "Bus" sending Elefanthimmeln 5a, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos.

For some Europeans, grabbing the chains isn't an option... Simon Rawlinson, a Welshman, returned this year to clean his conscious after grabbing the chains last year on Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos.

Aegialis...

"So I guess you're done for the day..." It's not often you're told to pack it in and I figured I had energy for another go... Fortunately, Brian wasn't referring to my endurance but rather the hanger that had fallen off the fifth bolt, the sling now hanging at the fourth, which would have meant falling awfully close to the deck. Undeterred, Alfonso Pascua found the nut and using my rope as a toprope returned it to its rightful place, tightening the nut by hand... He then proceeded to test the fourth bolt with an unexpected fall before fighting the pump all the way to the anchor, which after much contemplation, he decided to grab. Brian, The American, informed me that that counts in Europe... Unfortunately, the nut is still loose, but might hold if hand tightened after each climb.

Alfonso Pascua resting on the majestic Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos.

Aegialis...

The crux of Aegialis involves traversing across a tufa, on which the rope gets stuck, leaving the irrational thought of a sheared rope in the back of your mind... Unfazed, Katja Bajec, walked Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos, resting on almost every hold, easily the most impressive climb I've seen here so far, especially considering I know all the moves...

My Long Holiday

It was slabby, they were from Scotland; they didn't make it look easy but they did enjoy every moment of it, even if it was bolted... My Long Holiday 6c, Afternoon, Kalymnos.

DNA

DNA 7a+, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos, in the afternoon sun....

Priapos

For a Scot, only heroin could get you this close to the otherworldly climbing of Priapos 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos...

Agealis...

All the moves done... The crux of Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos, that didn't much feel like the crux. Now, if just the cold would go away...

Buttshot...

Les circus de Spartacus....

Chased!

With 11 climbers on the wall at the same time, you have to climb quickly... Kristin Boye in the lead on the fantastic tuffas of Les Amazones 6c, Spartacus, Kalymnos.

Kalymnos

Not a bad view, eh?

Brown Sugar

Fall is here and the good stick that comes with it too, but we're off to Kalymnos... Henry Tang Kai on Brown Sugar 6b+, Nacka Kvarn, Stockholm.

Complete Denial

"The crux is too high on this one." Jon Lindmark trying to shake off the pump on Totalvägra 7a, Nacka Kvarn, Stockholm.

Freaky Deaky

An aptly named climb considering the placement of the third bolt... Thomas Nygård on the steep Freaky Deaky 7a+, Nacka Kvarn, Stockholm.

Norrlands Beta

There's something special about the north, maybe it's the cold winters, the contrasts between the seasons, the distance and space, the slower pace, that brings people together. We tend to have a greater appreciation for each other when life is harder.

It's always a pleasure to climb with the good folk from Norrland, they're an inclusive and supportive bunch and they know their climbs. There's nothing quite like Norrlands beta, it's like the sixth man of climbing, you know in advance what you don't; forget visualization, just listen, climb and you'll be fine...

Considering the circumstances, its tough to judge, but it's unlikely it holds the grade; knowing exactly where to go and how to get there... Shawn Boye flashing Lutande tornet 7a+, Nacka Kvarn, Stockholm.

Goal Orientation

As climbers we try to push ourselves, some more than others; similarly, we place different value on our accomplishments. For some it's the journey, not just the goal that matters... What are you looking for in your next climb?

Shawn Boye enjoyng, for a couple of minutes, mastery of Breña 7b+, Ekoberget, Stockholm. Then it's on to the next one...

Breña

Often we play to our strengths, but to improve we would do well to focus on our weaknesses. While Breña doesn't appear to be much more than a couple of boulders, the technical nature of the route does not reward misplaced feet... The sum is greater than the parts, providing a sense of appreciation for each bolt. Add to that a majestic fall day at Baggensfjärden and you've got an absolutely fantastic route.

Shawn Boye gliding up the tricksy Breña 7b+, Ekoberget, Stockholm.

Psyche!

There's really only one way to approach sending, complete commitment, or in the words of Jonas Wigren, "A whipper is good for the moral." Too true...

The Photographer has a Big Apparatus...

Well, it was a different route but we weren't that far off... Linda Sandgren delivering for the photo shoot on Nedkomsten 5c, Ekoberget, Stockholm.

Know your history?

So it doesn't happen again... We're not keeping anything alive but a reminder of what should never be allowed to reoccur. Censorship is for the ignorant and/or manipulative...

Big man, Magnus Olofsson bearing down on the small crimps of Tirpitz 7a+, Gåseborg, Stockholm.

Boulder Bash

Ry Morrison topping out the final problem to win Boulder Bash at Klätterverket.

Contrast

A climber, a down jacket and skinny dipper... a photo full of contrasts. Jonas Wigren, back at work, on Baggen 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

The Wherewithal...

Some of the allure in sport climbing definitely lies in the knowledge that when you work a route it's easy to see the possibility of a send. It's equally easy to forget the impact of lactic acid, or so called "pump" and the difficulty of executing under stress. While climbing can be thought of as many different things, in it's finer forms it is, no doubt, a path to greater self awareness through focusing both body and mind to find the ability to finish.

Nonetheless, sport climbing does involve a degree of hanging around which leaves time for a joke or two... Foiled by pump, after three moves, Fredrik Sydstrand contemplates the impact of bouldering and its affect on his attempt to reclaim his route at Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

Contemplation...

There are times when we hang there, uncertain of how to proceed or what to do next. It can be frustrating, but it is in these moments that we find the means to overcome... Christoffer Westin contemplating the crux of Kattöga 7b+, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

Sent!

A couple of days before I sent, I was told it wasn't 8a. That I had an advantage being tall, making the first move on the route substantially easier. At that point, I'd tried the route twice, both times falling off above the crux on a move, that for me, is difficult due to my height; it goes both ways. Regardless, it didn't really matter what the grade was, it's a fantastic route and I was going to send...

All in all, it took five tries, that is, if you discount the numerous attempts to figure out the start moves and one attempt on the non direct version. Three of the four falls came on the above mentioned move, the fourth and final fall on the next to last, which I learned, thereafter, could be done a much easier way.

For me, it's tough to say what the grade is, it honestly felt as if it were 7a, but the powerful style of the climb definitely suits me and I had it dialed. Not that it matters, grading is always subjective, but a send is not. For the moment, I'll trust the community's consensus of the grade, though it's tough to know since I'm not going to disregard my boycott over some number... I'll reserve opinion until I've sent a few more at the grade.

Shawn Boye crusing the crux on Tintin direkt 8a, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

Anticipation...

I'm going to send, it's not a declaration, it's confidence based in knowledge of what I feel to be possible. This conviction does not add pressure, instead it strengthens the resolve to pull through. What's your chance for success? Shawn Boye going through the moves on Tintin direkt 8a, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

Dejection?

We're all looking to send, but when you're shut down does it leave you wanting more? Sure, once you've sent, there's that moment of jubilation and then it's off to the next problem. But when you're denied, there's the desire to overcome, a way to find, a challenge to meet, that results in the euphoria of the send. We climb to overcome? Jonas Wigren looking forward on Baggen 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

That Sending Feeling...

A picture says a thousand words... Joel Berglund after sending Kapten Haddock 7a, Finnsvedsbergen, Stockholm.

Easy Street

At 10 meters it's practically a boulder, only you wouldn't want to boulder it... Meeting your belayer usually means a pretty soft fall and that it definitely wouldn't be without the belayer. You'd also think that there's bound to be a hard move somewhere along the way, but there's not, it's the combination of moves that makes the route.

You need to dial it in, and that's what we were working on when Jon Lindmark showed up. He asked if he could top it which we begrudgingly allowed, but undeterred, he demonstrated superb execution and hiked it until the last sloper which was giving the rest of us fits. So we continued, practicing pulling our legs up so as not to hit our belayer in the head as we in turn pitched off for a 6 meter ride. Then, he had the nerve to try and top it again, which we resoundingly denied, forcing him to tie into the sharp end. He responded by casually cruising the route with impeccable form, making it hard to believe it was a personal best. Maybe it's time for a downgrade?

Nonetheless, we continued the struggle with varied success... Jonas Wigren bearing down on the crimp that sets up the crux on Lugna gatan 7b+, Gustavbergs Vattentorn, Stockholm.

The Crux...

The crux of Agealis starts with an imposing tufa that you clip on the right before traversing left to a good pinch. Then its an iron pinch on the tufa and two shallow pockets before another good handle at the top of the tufa. Its a sequence that you'd never miss if it were a boulder problem, but 20 pumpy meters up its a whole different story... And all the while, the irrational thought exists in the back of your mind, that the rope is shearing across that tufa. Oscar Krumlinde launching into the crux of Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos.

Agealis

It is my opinion that a photo should say something, that it should somehow captivate the viewer and give some insight on life. Climbing with the inherent depth involved, not to mention the focus and desire of the climber, provides a great opportunity to capture innate aspects of the human psyche. I do not take climbing photos for beta, even though that is the primary interest of many climbers.

However, I do use a Canon 5D Mark II which means that every hold on Agealis is clearly visible in the high resolution version of this image, as you can see in the blog's background image... and I intend to make use of that information. An unknown climber entering the crux of Agealis 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos, in all its glory high over the Mediterranean; the world's most photographed sport climb and with good reason.

The Future...

Our four year old has been climbing since he could walk and when he grows up he will not remember ever having not climbed. He is also a keen observer and when concentrated has a flow to his climbing that is only seen in the very best. So what will become of his talent? Will I have a chance to make another climbing film? Above all, I hope that he enjoys climbing and gets the opportunity to see the world in a broader context, growing as a person in the process. It makes one ponder what drives us to climb...

10 Kronor

We've been working on counting to twenty, a little addition and subtraction, with our four year old. So the other day was allowance day and after having missed last week we realized that we didn't have two twenties...

Mom: I only have a 50...
The shockingly quick four year old: Well, I can give you 10 back.

We hadn't even mentioned that he was to receive 40, just that he would also get last weeks allowance as well... I burst out laughing.

Kapten Haddock

With all the talk of what's appropriate for route names we decided on Finnsvedsbergen to provided such much needed respite from the shear insanity. Who could possibly be offended by Kapten Haddock? Well, certainly there's someone in Stockholm, at this very moment, in uproar enough to throw any remaining vestige of freedom of speech to the hawks.

Jon Lindmark, more concerned about the lack of stick than the route's name, Kapten Haddock, 7a, Finnsvedsbergen.

Baggen

Almost in the bag... Björn Bergmark cutting loose on Baggen, 7a+, Finnsvedsbergen.

Bring it on!

Agealis. It's a legendary route, and probably the most photographed sport climb on the planet, good enough to go back for, bring it on!

Chief

Top of The Chief via Rock On 5.10a and Squamish Buttress 5.10c in 10 pitches. A bit of an adventure but a good day out.

Nuts

I've heard of guys chopping bolts, based on some ethical standpoint or other. Well, what about fixed gear? Same thing goes, right? So I made a point of removing this unsightly blemish from the crux of the Squamish Buttress. It took a bit of effort but maybe it makes this classic a little more exciting for your average 5.10 leader.

The Prow Wall Project

Colin Moorhead rope soloing his project on the magnificent Prow Wall, The Chief, Squamish.

Rock On

Sometimes you can lose track of just how far out you are. Rob, thinking there were only 5 meters left of the 70 meter rope on a 55 meter pitch, decided to build an anchor at just about the crux of Rock On 5.10a, The Chief, Squamish. It's not easy to climb by a guy on belay on the crux, but you do what you have to do...

Birds of Prey

Birds of Prey and Pipeline share the same start, and after the second pitch, a brilliant steep corner, you climb onto a ramp and straight ahead lies the dreaded offwidth. I was already five meters out when I realized our route involved the "boldish step up leftward", sometimes you get drawn into things... Unknown climbers below on the scrappy finishing pitch to Birds of Prey 5.10b, The Squaw, Squamish.

Lunch

What did you have for lunch? Somehow it tastes better when you catch it yourself...

Supervalue

Accessible to all, The Car Park Crags at the Smoke Bluffs provide some exciting climbing with a reasonable approach, if say, you were to give trad a chance... Toby Foord-Kelcey on Supervalue 5.10c, Smoke Bluffs, Squamish.

Power Windows

I have never climbed anything so slabby. The crack is good, the start of the traverse interesting and then you get to the arête... where there's not a single crystal. It's palms backwards friction climbing, absolutely dreadful. Rob Wall gliding up Power Windows 5.11b/c, Smoke Bluffs, Squamish.

To say or not to say...

"Next time, don't clip the daisy chain into the lower piece when trying to clean your pro mid route. No sense breaking your back if you fall." Penny Lane is a trade route and sees a lot of traffic and probably some it shouldn't. So what do you do when you see someone climbing do something really stupid? Like risking a factor two fall on a daisy chain? Climbing recently published an article on just this topic; I figure it's better to say something than just observe. Maybe, something is learned or at least you can walk away with a clear conscience.

A bit of perspective on what Kevin McLane describes as "The classic Smoke Bluff crack"; an unknown climber cruising the 35 meter Penny Lane 5.9, Smoke Bluffs, Squamish.

Decision time.

"So, what should we climb next?"

Penny Lane

Sometimes you've got to adapt, I'm not especially adept at jamming, but at this angle you do what you have to do, even if that involves getting your knee above your shoulder. It's not an angle you'd want to fall on... I had no idea I was that flexible. Shawn Boye cruising Penny Lane 5.9, Smoke Bluffs, Squamish.

Neat and Cool

Some years back a climber died on this route, protecting it, according to the Kevin McLane's guide "requires a level of savvy"; it is considered a Squamish classic, probably because it's one of the few steep cracks at the Smoke Bluffs. I took a moment to shake out and consider just how things could go so wrong... A contemplative Shawn Boye on Neat and Cool 5.10a, Smoke Bluffs, Squamish.

Burning Down The Couch

Bolting is one of those things that always leads to plenty of discussions. Over the years I've heard several a Swedish climber weigh in on sparsely bolted routes; all I can suggest is that they check out "The Pet". It's a big, water polished wall, traditionally bolted providing the possibility for solid airtime and here, no time is lost in removing any modifications that might alter the character of a climb. An unknown climber on the classic Burning Down The Couch 5.11d, Petrifying Wall, Murin Park, Squamish.